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I'm doing the front oil seal.. got to the point of removing the belt idler pulley; removed the center bolt, but what is still holding it on..? I tried gently nudging it from behind with a screwdriver, but there is no movement; how does one remove it..? with a gear puller, or some other method?
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picture? I think you need a gear puller but I've never done this.
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found here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... st14159871Hello all, I just finished my crank and shaft seal replacement, seeing as it making grease and was about 1/2 inch thick with gook all around the front timing belt (TB)sprockets, etc, so time to replace the seals.
time, 1 hour old man taking time, 30 minutes fast kid. Largest consumer of time was cleaning parts.
Two seals, one gasket, 10, 13mm sockets, gasket maker; hi temp black, sensor safe, wrench, Tq wrench.
It really is pretty easy with two important gotchas:
1) Do all the timing belt stuff, I removed water pump and tension pulley because all that stuff was being replaced.
2) Remove the crank TB pulley, the intermediary TB pulley. Oh, like pelican says, break the bolt free of the intermediary before you strip off the TB. The crank bolt, well, I'll admit I bought the tool which attach's to the front face of the crank sprocket after you remove the front pulley/dampener. I think it was money well spent, I'm going to be doing two more of these things, so there you have it. There are others who have gotten the front bolt off other ways, to each his own. To remove the crank TB pulley after you removed the bolt, i used two three inch screws and a pulley puller on top of the crank bolt which was loose, pulley came right out.
3) Here is the part your taking off the front of the block,it houses two seals, thats it, it has no structural need other than support seals:
Remove the woodruff key in the crank shaft. I used a plastic hammer and a small screwdriver. That did mar one side of the key which I filed smooth in about three seconds.
4) Remove all the bolts from the front housing. I think like 5 small ones which Tq at 9 nm and two big ones which tq at 22nm. Then go under car and take out three oil pan to housing bolts. The housing slipped right out. Note how the housing rides onto the seals, first the small one will go on, then the crank seal, then two small dowels guide it into place. Remember that...
5) Remove seals using a screwdriver or seal removal tool. Then clean up the housing, I let mine soak in brake cleaner for 1/2 hour, came out real shiny.
6) Go back and clean up the face of the block, scrape, shine with cleaner, but first put a rag into the space where gunk could fall into the oil pan. Clean and inspect the shafts of crank and shaft. My crank was fine. My shaft was grooved from the seal. Also pretty caked up with tarnished oil which I removed using 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper. The groove was still there.
7) Install seals:
I bought a neat aluminum seal installer from Harbor Freight for $20, worked like a champ. Manual says to seat the seals a little farther than the ones you removed. That could be a problem... If the new seals ride on parts of the shaft that is damaged, it will leak again in about a month, so i just put them back where they where, figuring I should at least get a few years out of it. The perfect answer is to turn the crank and remove the grooves. Not happening.
First, go through the next steps before you start, once you start, you only have 20-30 minutes to get the parts in place, and I used every minute because I noobed it the first 10 tries. With seals in, take a look at how your gasket is going to fit. I used a very thin as in 1/64 inch smear of grey sensor safe hi temp silicon sealer to make the gasket stick in place while I installed the housing.
9) Place a small string of sealer along the top part of the oil pan where the housing will fit. About 1/16 hi and 1/4 wide, more toward the sides where the ends are. You are now committed.
10) Install housing.
A) First, smear some oil on the seals, I used power steering fluid, why? I had power steering fluid available, and it was slipperier which made installing the seals over the shafts easier. Put some of this oil on the shafts themselves to aid installation.
B) Gotcha one: Place housing over shafts, note intermediary will go on first, USE YOUR FINGERS to guide the seal over the shaft, make sure it does not fold out over itself. make sure of this by looking into shaft with a mirror before you slide the shaft all the way over the seal. I say again, use your finger as a guide to force the seal into position, do not use tools. Do not lose the spring behind the seal surface. Once on, Repeat with the crank seal, this one was easier being bigger.
11) Push Housing all the way up to block using a pulling up movement as you slide it to the block, guide it onto the pins when you get to that point.
12) Install one of the upper screws into the housing a few threads, leave lost of room to wiggle. Gotcha two: Go under car and insert three oil pan screws (note how the oil pan is tilted, the screws are tilted...), wiggle housing to make sure you don't cross thread a bolt... Ask me how I know.
13) Go back on top and install rest of bolts, big and little, torq them to 9nm/22nm small/big. Go under car and tq to 9nm.
14) Reinstall all. Woodruff was no problem, I used a large pliers and rag protecting shaft and woodruff to squeeze it back into place, used crank bolt to install sprocket. Tighten all after TB installed.
15) Drink bear. OK, OK, drink BEER, it was along day...
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Thank you, M20_fever, but that idler pulley is not covered; I got it from another site, it comes off with a gear puller; just gotta make sure, that's one part that would be hard to replace if I screwed it up.
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