(Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

M20/M30/M50/Whatever! All engine related stuff here.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9087
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

(Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Yoshi » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:29 pm

In courtesy to E30Tech, I have reformatted this tutorial in the form of a post. If you like this tutorial, please visit my main website with this and more information at [url="http://www.slidewaysonline.com"]www.slidewaysonline.com[/url]

I have been asked and come across many people that want to know the easiest way of getting an oil pan off of the M20 engine. It is a relatively easy process but can be time consuming if you haven't done it before. The bolts are in tight spaces that are generally not easy to get to. This tutorial will show you how to do the oil pan without taking off the motor mounts, sub-frame, steering rack!

If you have any questions/comments/suggestions, please send them to [email="yoshi@slidewaysonline.com"]yoshi@slidewaysonline.com[/email]

Tools Needed:
Set of inverted torx bits.
10mm open ended box wrench
13mm open ended box wrench
10mm socket
13mm socket (I'm assuming you have a ratchet wrench)
17mm socket
Short extension
Jack + stands

Optional Tools:
U-joint
Long extension
Brake cleaner/PB Blaster
17mm open ended box wrench (you might need this)

"While you're down there" optional tasks:
Oil change
Check the crank/assembly for broken parts/problems
Paint the transmission shield and oil pan

Step 1 - Prep:
Gather all of your tools and drain the oil from the car (17mm for the oil drain bolt). Its suggested you have a fresh crush washer. Jack up the car. I suggest putting the car on 4 stands just so everything is level. Here is what you should see.
Image

Step 2 - Transmission shield:
On the back of the oil pan there is a cover that prevents debris from entering into the transmission bell housing. It takes 4 13mm hex bolts (see picture below) and 4 inverted torx bits from behind. If you have never seen interted torx bits before; they are a 6 sided socket used to gain more grip for extra torquing. As you can see the transmission in my car is gone so I can't tell you which socket size youll need. Just make sure you use one that fits perfectly or you run the risk of rounding them out.
Image

Step 3 - Oil pan bolts:
Here is the "fun" part. There is a series of 10mm bolts all the way around the perimeter of the oil pan. I estimate about 20 in total. The ones that will give you the most trouble are the 4 directly above the sub frame and steering rack. You will need to use the 10mm open ended box wrench or a combination of extensions and U-joints. If you have them all, the oil pan should be able to be wiggled around.
Image

Step 4 - Oil pump bolts:
This step is fairly simple but it is what will keep you from dropping the sub frame or steering rack. There are three 13mm bolts that keep the pump in. Two on the passenger's side and one on the driver's. Use the 13mm open ended box wrench to get them out. Wiggle the oil pump until it falls into the oil pan.
Image
Image

Step 5 - Last removals
I always forget to take something out! You need to take the oil dip stick out. You also need to drop the oil pump drive shaft if it hasn't already dropped (the orange thing in the picture next to the dip stick.

On top of that, the oil level sensor needs to come out (two 10mm nuts)(not pictured). Also remember to remove the ground strap with a single 13mm nut. It isnt pictured but it is right behind the oil level sensor and attaches the oil pan to the chassis.
Image

Step 6 - Loosen motor mounts:
Don't worry, we aren't taking them out. All four motor mount nuts need to be loosened until there is barely full threading on them. We need to keep enough threading on them so the mounts don't come out and we have to re-seat them. This way, we can jack up and down the engine without having to worry about it's alignment.
Image

Step 7 - Remove the oil pan:
Place your jack under your AC or AC bracket if you have removed your AC. Now jack up the engine until you can pull out the oil pan. There is an unremovable oil pressure thing (I have no idea what it is) that will get in the way. You can press it in a little to gain more clearance. For this particular instance I had to jack the engine so far that the intake touched the fire wall. If done right, it shouldnt stress the motor mounts too much and there will be no damage to anything.

Image
Image

Step 8 - Re-installation:
Installation is obviously the reverse of removal. It is a bit harder though. Keep the oil pump in the oil pan and place the drive shaft for it in place. It will take some shimmying but it is very doable. Remember! If you forget this, your oil pump will NOT work and you will get 0 oil pressure!
(Sorry for the fuzziness)
Image
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
User avatar
Bronzit30
E30 Guy
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 3:44 pm
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Bronzit30 » Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:10 pm

Any rough estimate on the time to do this? I am debating of doing this job in my car port today. Not sure what the weather in NOVA is like but down here its cold and wet.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9087
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Yoshi » Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:21 pm

Its pretty cold and wet here too.

it took me 2 nights of lax working after my main job. So... prob 3-4 hours if youre at an ok but not furious pace? I always make sure to clean everything and make sure its all good though so I take longer than most ppl.

I wouldn't do it today if its like where I am where you are.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
User avatar
LEAN_E30
E30 Guy
Posts: 73
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:40 am
Location: CO

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby LEAN_E30 » Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:32 am

someone should make a two piece pan for the m20 like the m10 has. snaking that pan out is such a bitch.
Image
User avatar
LEAN_E30
E30 Guy
Posts: 73
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:40 am
Location: CO

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby LEAN_E30 » Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:35 am

pw

seriously. i fucking hate having to change m20 oil pans. it may be different if i had an overhead rack, but shit....only time i've had to do it is once when my b25 was fresh (used yard motor) the pump went, then again when a retard of a rommmate put a jack under the pan instead of the subframe and cracked it trying to lift the car. god i want to punch that kid in the face.
Image
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9087
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Yoshi » Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:05 pm

its not really that bad once you get it down. I guess a 2 piece would be nice but for some reason, I can never get shit to seal right. So the less amount of mating surfaces, the happier yoshi is.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
Court M3
I <3 E30's
Posts: 511
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:52 am
AntiSpam: No

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Court M3 » Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:11 am

Did this today and used a cherry picker to raise the engine up a bit and not have to worry about removing oil pump
1983 S50 swapped 323i
1988 M3
1997 z3 1.9
2004 X3 2.5
User avatar
ten2doyle102
I <3 E30's
Posts: 5462
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:17 pm
Location: Appleton, WI
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby ten2doyle102 » Sun Mar 22, 2009 5:34 am

Court M3 wrote:Did this today and used a cherry picker to raise the engine up a bit and not have to worry about removing oil pump


That's now I did it. This is just another route for those people without access to a hoist.
Image
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9087
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Yoshi » Sun Mar 22, 2009 1:32 pm

yea I have a cherry picker now but most of us don't. you dont really HAVE to remove the oil pump but the pan just comes out so easy. It's only 3 bolts and has no gasket, why not?
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
User avatar
M20_fever
Größter Vorsitzender
Posts: 11026
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 1:28 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Northern IL

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby M20_fever » Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:11 am

Glad to hear you got your leaky pan figured out Court, did you do it at the hobby shop?
Image
Midwestern Councel C Prepared class champion 2012
North Suburban Sports Car Club C Prepared class champion 2012
HSAX Instructor

GET YOUR E3P GEAR HERE: http://www.cafepress.com/e3pgearshop
Court M3
I <3 E30's
Posts: 511
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 12:52 am
AntiSpam: No

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Court M3 » Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:58 pm

yes took Joe and I a couple of laxing hours to do it. Starting some bodywork today.
1983 S50 swapped 323i
1988 M3
1997 z3 1.9
2004 X3 2.5
DonkeyPunch
E30 Guy
Posts: 99
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 2:58 am
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby DonkeyPunch » Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:04 am

Good wright up.
If you don't have A/C I
recommend using the tranny bell housing.
My signature is to help me find my last post like a bookmark.
Should I make it flashy with colors, and a picture of my car?
This is fine... People will know it's me just by looking at this text,
not my screen name.BLUE or perhaps a large .gif. Hmm.
BMWIS
I <3 E30's
Posts: 154
Joined: Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:18 am
AntiSpam: No

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby BMWIS » Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:34 am

Sometimes, things are easier to just do them right.

IMO it would be easier to drop the whole dam front subframe.....Really not that much work. And like I said in my experience, it's easier to just get things out of the way than to wrestle things around them.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9087
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby Yoshi » Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:44 pm

DonkeyPunch wrote:Good wright up.
If you don't have A/C I
recommend using the tranny bell housing.


I have always been apprehensive to use the tranny bell housing as a jack point since it is behind the center of gravity from the tranny mounts. I feel like it would stress the tranny mounts and potentially drop your motor.

BMWIS wrote:Sometimes, things are easier to just do them right.

IMO it would be easier to drop the whole dam front subframe.....Really not that much work. And like I said in my experience, it's easier to just get things out of the way than to wrestle things around them.


I've done both methods, the one in the writeup works the fastest for me. Maybe not for others.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
DonkeyPunch
E30 Guy
Posts: 99
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 2:58 am
Contact:

Re: (Easy) Oil pan removal (M20)

Postby DonkeyPunch » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:19 pm

You need to unbolt the tranny mounts. EZ
I've done that plenty of times.
My signature is to help me find my last post like a bookmark.
Should I make it flashy with colors, and a picture of my car?
This is fine... People will know it's me just by looking at this text,
not my screen name.BLUE or perhaps a large .gif. Hmm.

Return to “Engine”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests