Clutch job

From the tranny down to wheel bearings.
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AustinR
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Clutch job

Postby AustinR » Fri Aug 31, 2012 1:17 am

I'm pretty sure I need a new throwout bearing, so I would think it would be smart to do a whole clutch at the same time.

-How hard is this job? From what I read, it's a pretty big pita.
-Should I lighten my flywheel? Tony, I believe you have a lightened flywheel? How do you like it/how much of a difference does it make?
-I have a transmizzon leak, so I'll be fixing that when it's out too. It's coming from this little plate on top of the trans as far as I can tell. Both output and selector rod seals have been replaced already. Still leaks.
-I'm not gonna be able to do this one outside I don't think, so I need a garage. Nick, I know you have offered yours up in the past. Wanna help :mrgreen: ? haha. The only problem is my only other form of transportation I have is my bike, and your house is a bit of a ride away. I'm guessing this project will go on for at least a few days, so that might be harder than it needs to be.
A guy I work with has offered his garage up as well and it's in town (between my house and work). Never been there yet, so I don't know how plausible it is to do it there yet, but from what I hear he has lots of tools and an engine hoist and everything. Sounds good anyway.

I'm just assuming getting a shop to do this will cost me twice as much as the yearly wage of a gypsy hooker, so I don't want to go that route.

From the guys who have done this; Tips? Tricks? Pointers? Words of Wisdom?

I'll do a good write-up when the day comes.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby M20_fever » Fri Aug 31, 2012 2:10 am

Other than accessing the top bell housing bolts and the bitch clip its not that bad with some good jack stands. Your going to need to make the franken extension to get the top bell housing bolts, I use 2 12" extensions, with a swivel between then and a swivel on the socket end. The bitch clip is well, a bitch, you just gotta get a long flat screwdriver up there and futz with it until it comes off. Loosening the engine mounts and letting the engine tilt down at the trans side helps a lot, just support the engine at the back of the oil pan with a small wood block on the jack.

I do have a lightened flywheel, though not as light as some people run. Nice improvement, makes the car a bit more responsive. You can probably find better mods to spend the money on for a DD if you don't need to remove it for another reason IMO. Do you have a short shifter yet? If not spend that money on a SSK and replace all the shifter bushings while you have the trans down, it will add way more noticeable improvement over a lightened flywheel. You can probably get some new engine and trans mounts as well for what a machine shop would charge to lighten your flywheel.

Get some RedlineMTL to refilt the trans with, makes a huge difference in the feel of the g260.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby AustinR » Fri Aug 31, 2012 2:31 am

Cool. Good info. Thanks!

What exactly does the bitch clip do? Where is it?

I'll have to pick up some Redline MTL and I'll save my pennies instead of get the flywheel lightened. Is it a good idea to get it resurfaced or anything?

I don't have a short shifter, but I kinda like the stock one. We'll see.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby M20_fever » Fri Aug 31, 2012 2:40 am

Bitch clip is #3 in the diagram below.
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Don't need to resurface unless the flywheel is noticeably scared or damaged, usually its not required. Even if you don't want to go shorter, rebuild the shifter while you have the trans out, makes night and day difference. That includes replacing the shift lever since the lower bushing is part of it and can't be replaced, which is why I suggested upgrading to a shorter throw.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby AustinR » Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:02 am

M20_fever wrote:...which is why I suggested upgrading to a shorter throw.

Yeah. Good thinkin.

The bushings in my shifter mechanism are only about a year and a half old (wow, that long already!) That being said, the ball joint part shown in the diagram has a bunch of play in it. So my new bushings made a difference, but there's still a decent amount of play. You can grab the shift lever and move it up and down like you're jerkin it off. Probably goes up and down 1/8" to 1/4".
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Re: Clutch job

Postby Nsquared97 » Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:19 am

IMO shouldn't tale more than a weekend, even if we are taking our time. Like Tony said the biggest problem will be getting at those trans bolts. As far as the flywheel goes, I have acess to a lathe and we could do it for free, but I don't know how to balance it so that would be an issue. I definitely want a lighter flywheel, mainly so you can shift faster while being smooth.

I've done the clutch plate itself, and I have a clutch alignment tool. Never messed with the bearings and whatever else your supposed to change out in there though. But we have a Bentley and E3P, pretty sure we can figure it out.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby Yoshi » Fri Aug 31, 2012 1:29 pm

My first clutch job took 2 days in an apartment complex on jack stands lol.

General tips:
You want the exhaust out. Don't pussy foot around it. Take it out first
my auto to manual write up should have more tips
drop the tranny brace after you get the drive shaft off. It will let you get to the back bolts. The head will rest against the firewall so don't worry.
If you still need room to get to the top bolts. get a 2x4 and put that between a jack and the oil pan. Basically pivot the front end of the motor up to tilt the tranny down.
You should NOT need U joints to get the trans out.
Take the starter and the slave cylinder off first.
Lube the input shaft before you put anything back together. I shattered a clutch this way
For the love of GOD replace the pilot bearing
Make sure the clutch is oriented right or you're going to have a bad time.

Tools you def need:
pilot bearing puller
lots of extensions
E10 and E14 I think (maybe E12?)
slave cylinder is 2 13mm
Big ass pry bar.
An extra jack couldn't hurt.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby ten2doyle102 » Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:09 pm

And if you don't have a pilot bearing remover.... use bread! :)

I think you'll need the E12 as well Yoshi. I wanna say the starter has those.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby Yoshi » Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:22 pm

Something like that lol.
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Re: Clutch job

Postby AustinR » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:26 pm

ten2doyle102 wrote:And if you don't have a pilot bearing remover.... use bread! :)


Haha. I don't have a pilot bearing remover. Explain yourself!
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Re: Clutch job

Postby Yoshi » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:29 am

take the clutch alignment tool that comes with the clutch kit. Use it to keep shoving bread into the hole. Once you shove enough bread in, the pilot bearing will come out. It seriously works. Or you can just rent the tool
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Re: Clutch job

Postby AustinR » Wed Sep 05, 2012 2:32 am

Hahahahaha! For real?!
I'm definitely gonna try it.
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Clutch job

Postby ten2doyle102 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:34 am

Yep, I dos it on my 330. It was fun!
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Re: Clutch job

Postby aljaz11 » Tue Apr 07, 2015 1:44 pm

any photos of that happening :D it would be interesting to see!!
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Re: Clutch job

Postby M20_fever » Tue Apr 07, 2015 2:51 pm

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