&*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

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&*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:29 pm

So I'm supposed to drive across the state right now and babysit my niece, but on my drive home, I smelled something hot coming from my car.
Long story short: Rear right brake caliper is sticking. Caliper is brand new as of 9 months ago. Greased the slide pins and the caliper slides on them easily.
When I replaced the caliper before, I went to put SS lines on, but the damn old ones were so rusted on it was looking like I was gonna have to replace all the hard lines and all that.
Is that biting me on the ass right now? Is it possible the old line is collapsed on the inside, not allowing the caliper to return?

Pissed. Why do cars break when you need them most?
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:58 am

Update: It has to be the line. I started trying to get the line off, and it turns out it's still rusted on there just like last time I tried to do this.
Does anyone have a trick to getting the fittings to come apart? I'm probably going to need new hard lines anyway, so where do I cut/is there an easy way to do this?
If/when I end up getting new hard lines, what's better: Copper, steel, oem?
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby Nsquared97 » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:35 am

Are you using line wrenches or just open ended wrenches? Also I would douse the hell out of the fittings with PB blaster, that may help a bit.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:37 am

Used regular wrenches, but that didn't last long. I don't have line wrenches, so I moved up to vice grips once I settled with the fact that I'm gonna f*** up the fittings anyway and get new. Even with vice grips, I still can't get it loose. So next I'm probably going to just cut the line and put a socket on it.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby Nsquared97 » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:43 am

SO it's the right rear, which line are you trying to get off? I'm assuming the outer line, not the inner right?
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:45 am

Yeah, outer, but if I'm replacing he hard line....hahaha. It never ends.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby M20_fever » Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:35 am

welcome to dropping your rear subframe. sucks man, but pretty much the only way I know to get to the inner rear lines. Late now, bit did you see if you had good pressure when bleeding that caliper? if you have good pressure at the bleeder the caliper is the problem. Even new calipers can be bad.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby Yoshi » Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:13 pm

dude your caliper is stuck. it's not the line. I've never seen a line internally collapse.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:55 pm

Caliper is not stuck. I can push it back in manually with a c-clamp pretty easily.
Hopefully I don't have to do the inner lines yet. That being said, if I have to drop the sub-frame, my car is gonna be out of commission for quite a while because I want to put in the lsd that Yoshi's got as well as new subframe bushings, and probably raise the subframe while I'm at it. I don't want to do it twice.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby Yoshi » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:21 pm

I'd still rebuild the caliper.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:13 pm

I don't know man. The rubber line ended up being pretty twisted up looking. I tried to make it as straight as possible, but I really think that's the problem. If not, I actually think I have some seals to rebuild calipers sitting around. I'll do it if I have to, I really doubt that's it though. Who knows.

Obviously, I'm not babysitting my niece anymore. haha. I'm supposed to be doing that as I sit and type this, and I'm on the wrong side of the state. Dammit.

So since that's the case, the next thing I need my car for is the e3p meet in one month if that's still going on. So I've got a decent amount of time.

Back on topic.
Since the hard lines are pretty much shot anyway, I'm thinking of cutting them and getting a socket on the 11mm flare nut since I can't seem to hold those damn things tight enough without rounding them. I'm going to end up putting new brake lines in anyway, whatever that takes, so I might as well.

Side note: While looking at alternate ways to get to the east side of the state, I found that if I go to Kalamazoo (an hour drive away, 4 hour bike ride) I can ride the Amtrak train right into Port Huron for $19. That's less than I spend in gas to get there one way! They also serve food on one of the cars, and have liquor and beer! I'm sayin that's not half bad!
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:00 pm

Well, I got the right side off, and just need a new hard line. I thought I might as well do both outside soft, and outside hard lines while I'm in there, so I went to the other side, and I can't get the fittings loose between the outside hard line and the inside soft line without ruining the fittings. So I peer a little further into this mess. The joint at the t-fitting (supply line, right rear hard line, left rear hard line) features all 3 nicely rusted lines. Should just replace them all and the fitting.
So here are my options...

1. Only fix the line that's giving me trouble, put everything together and have my car driving by tomorrow.
-Problems with this plan: The other side is inevitably going to fail. The rusted out t-fitting is probably going to fail. Ticking time bomb.

2. Change the inner and outer soft lines, involving dropping the sub-frame.
-Problems with this plan: Won't have a vehicle for quite some time because of the inevitable chain reaction. Once I drop the subframe, I should also drop the gas tank because it has an issue transferring fuel from driver's side to pump side. While I have all that out, my car needs a new clutch and the trans leaks...This is why this plan takes so long. Because of this, I would probably need to buy a new DD which I don't have money for. I could go without a car where I live, but do I really want to put all that work into my rusty chassis? Not really. That brings me to...

3. Sell or Part out my car. If I sell it in it's current condition, I won't get hardly anything for it. I know I would get a whole lot more out of it if I parted it. I could fix everything, then sell it I guess, but I've already got probably $7-8000 into my car. Even if I fix the gas tank, brakes, and idle issue, what will I get for it? Like $2000? $2500 if I'm lucky? F*** that.

I would hate for one little brake issue to "kill" my car, but damn this shit's adding up.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby Nsquared97 » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:38 am

If getting replacing that line and getting it bled tomorrow doesn't do the trick, I have an extra set of rear calipers, if your lucky the one we would need isn't the one that has a bleeder screw stuck in it.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby AustinR » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:41 am

Yeah, sounds good. I'm pretty sure I have some new seals laying around somewhere too.
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Re: &*%*$*@^#*%$($*@#&#*$*@!!!!!!!! Please Help Quick

Postby M20_fever » Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:46 am

Your over thinking it. Sometimes you just need to accept your going to have to do the same disassemble/assembly procedure more than once. Fix the brake issue, probably the caliper, then go back and fix the other stuff little by little. Eventually you will get very good at the process and it won't seem so bad.
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