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 Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide 
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Post Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
In courtesy to E30Tech, I have reformatted this tutorial in the form of a post. If you like this tutorial, please visit my main website for this and more information at [url="http://www.slidewaysonline.com"]www.slidewaysonline.com[/url]



To put it bluntly, this is not an easy task. Our swap (Viet and I) took roughly 7 hours not including pedal installation and removal of the manual parts from the donor. This was also done in a shop with pneumatics and lifts so our job was considerably easier than the average at-home mechanic.

If you have any questions/comments/suggestions please email them to [email="yoshi@slidewaysonline.com"]yoshi@slidewaysonline.com[/email]


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Parts Needed:
Drive shaft (MUST be from the manual car with your engine. IE M42 drive shafts are longer than M20 drive shafts)
Master cylinder
Slave cylinder
Transmission
Clutch and related parts (flywheel, bearings, etc)
Clutch lines
Clutch pedal set

Tools Needed:
Everyone one you can get
Inverted torx bit set

Before you begin - Truths about the manual swap:

Center support bearings:
Diving board (early) and plastic bumper (late) model cars have different CSBs. Make sure you have the appropriate one.
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Brake reservoir:
You do not need a different one. Notice that there is a capped off nipple on the automatic res. Just cut off and attach the line.
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Drive shafts:
The automatic drive shaft is significantly shorter than the manual one. Any manual drive shaft will do, they are basically all the same.

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Transmission mount brace:
The automatic and manual braces are very different. Pictured are the differences that you can see.

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Lets start with the swap!
Pedal set removal/installation:
Unfortunately we did not get pictures of this but the installation is fairly straight forward. There are 4 bolts on the back of the pedal set that encircle the master cylinder and two above the pedals. Once these are out, the master cylinder is out, and the clutch spring is taken out, the pedal set should come out. I have heard that you can simple take the peg out that holds the brake/clutch pedals and they come out but I have not done this.

Installation is the same as removal except you will have to punch a hold in the fire wall. There is already a perforated circle where you need to punch out. You should purchase the rubber gasket that keeps the water out as well.

First removals (drive shaft and transmission cooler lines):
The transmission cooler lines are simple to remove. Just get the appropriate sized wrenches and remove them. Note that you can get a manual radiator for better cooling or just remove the lines from the radiator.
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The drive shaft is a straight forward removal. First remove the exhaust and heat shielding (12mm for the exhaust and IIRC 10mm for the heat shielding). The drive shaft has four 13mm bolts connecting it to the differential, and six 15mm bolts/nuts connecting the drive shaft to the guibo to the transmission output shaft. I suggest dropping the transmission brace/mounts and supporting the transmission with a jack for easier access. Once those bolts are out, take a plumber's wrench and loosen the collar in the middle of the drive shaft. This will allow it to compress and drop down. Take a 13mm wrench and remove the CSB and the drive shaft should easily come out.

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Auto transmission removal:
First disconnect the shift linkage that connects to the throttle body. It is the only one that goes off differently than the regular accelerator cable and cruise control cable. Then disconnect the automatic shift lever from the transmission. The rest is using various torx bits and extensions to unbolt the transmission. This won't be easy. The starter has two torx bits with 17mm(maybe 15mm) nuts behind them. There are two hard to get bolts at the top of the transmission and a 10mm bolt on the passenger's side that holds the shielding to the transmission. The transmission should come out relatively easily.

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NOTE: the torque converter (big donut thing) MUST come out with the transmission or it will spill EVERYWHERE!

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Behind the torque converter is the starter wheel. It is the version of the flywheel that the starter interfaces with in order to start the car.


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Once the bolts have been removed you will be left with a dust shielding. I recommend not taking it out just because it is already set properly to mount your starter. DO NOT reinstall without this piece. Your starter is aligned with this and will grind on the flywheel. Also, inspect your rear main seal for leaks.

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Take a break! This has probably taken you an hour or two and that thing is HEAVY! Here is what we were left with.


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Beginnings of reinstallation:
Get a good clutch kit. Reusing the old parts is iffy at best. You can use an old flywheel and get it remachined to accept a new clutch. If you dont, the old surface will prematurely wear away the clutch and won't mesh properly. Remember to install a new pilot bearing. If you do the install from an automatic car, it shouldn't have a pilot bearing. Simply grease it up and tap it in with a rubber mallet. and a 1/2inch socket or something of a similar shape. It needs to be as far back as you can get it or the transmission wont go in.

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The flywheel installation is fairly straight forward. The flywheel bolts need to be bolted in a start pattern to 106nm (~78ftlb). The wheel only aligns one way because if a peg that sticks out and only fits into one hole. Ensure that you are using the right flywheel. Some models are single mass while others are dual. FYI the stock flywheel weighs 16lbs. You can get some shops to machine a few lbs off while they resurface it.

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Use the clutch alignment tool to get the clutch and pressure plate on. This also will only go on one way. The torque specs are 24nm(18ftlbs) for Gr 8.8 bolts, or 32nm(25ftlbs) for Gr 10.9 bolts.

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Install the slave cylinder if you haven't done so already. I suggest linking in the slave line before you fully install the transmission so the line is easier to access. Once its up there, its really hard to get in a 10mm wrench.

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Shifter Removal:
Hop in the car and pull out the shifter console. Theres two plastic tabs. One in each wheel well in the back. There is also an 8mm bolt in the cigarette container in the back seat. The E-brake handle pulls off with some effort and that piece should come out. There is an 8mm bolt under the shifter boot as well. We found some bolts under the center console that I had never seen before but it was quick work with an 8mm open ended box wrench.

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Once that is out, there are two 8 or 10mm bolts on the top of the shifter. Then the shifter should simply lift out after disconnecting the plug.

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Install the transmission:
We had the shifter already on the transmission on install. It makes things much easier.

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Install the transmission. We had to use a dead man to jack up the front of the engine to tilt it to accept the transmission at an easier angle.

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Installation of the transmission bolts are the same as removal. This part will probably take you a while. Make sure to hook up the shifter, slave cylinder line, starter, and everything else are in. From here you can bolt back in the transmission brace/mounts and heat shielding. Then the exhaust! You're almost there!

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Wiring:
Here is the part most people get hung up on. Wire the two green/black wires and green/yellow wire and connect all of them to one of the reverse light wiring. The other reverse switch wire goes to the blue/white wire. Cap off the brown wire. This will get your reverse lights to work and your car to start.

This will not work for cruise control. I hear you need to separate the two green/black wires via a switch to tell the car you are in drive but I am not too sure about this. Who needs it anyway.

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Congrats! You are done with your manual swap! Remember to be easy on the clutch for about 500 miles and to bleed it properly. Enjoy!

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Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:32 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
Attached is a parts list I compiled for where I found the best deals on parts neeed for the swap. Hopefully this can give some people a better idea of what its gonna be costing them.


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Fri Apr 10, 2009 3:38 am
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
Sweet write up!

Also great spreadsheet there! I was just going to ask on the estimated price of install

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Fri Apr 10, 2009 4:25 am
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
damn thats a cheap manual swap.

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Fri Apr 10, 2009 2:25 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
Stuff from the pick-n-pulls probably differs alot. But I still thought that most of the stuff needed for a swap ran you around 500-700 bucks

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Fri Apr 10, 2009 3:42 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
The pick-and-pulls around here have half off days every wednesday, and thats the day i went to get all of the stuff.


Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:31 am
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
beware when doign this people.. im in the middle of it and the support arm for the gearstick is either the wrong part (unlikely but possible) or the gearbox is from a 325e (checked PN's and 325e is the only E30 with a different part number for the support arm, i didnt even think we ever had 325e's in europe). also it might be a possibility that the combo of a Z3M gearstick and a straight shift linkage rod is pushing the shifter too far forward. the problem is that the part of the shift arm that the stick mounts into is too far forward so i cant put the car into reverse, 1st, 3rd or 5th. since a 325e support arm is no garauntee im having the arm that i got lengthened by adding alumimium and having it welded to extend it by about an inch since i didnt feel like cutting the floor. another factor may be that the Z3M stick is straight whereas the stock E30 stick has a bend in it which would aid in clearance at the front of the hole.

the upshot is if your fitting a Z3M shifter or any other straight shifter check your linkages, lengths of new parts if you do as i did and replace the lot or be prepared to have some custom fab work or modification done.

also FWIW this swap is on a RHD car but i couldnt imagine the linkage or anything around there being different between LHD and RHD countries.


Tue May 19, 2009 3:50 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
should be the same really. Eta shifter things are actually a whole metal "shield" and not a stick like ours. Are your motor mounts good? you could be dealing with a motor shifted forward a good amount. Or you rotated the shifter itself 180 degrees.

it really should fit...

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Tue May 19, 2009 3:59 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
yea the motor mounts are good, the box is in the car and the support for the box and 2 new bushes are already on and bolted up si its definately something with the linkages.

i would say it must be the combo of a straight selector rod (bmw part diagrams show the rod to have a bend at one side, mine doesnt) and the Z3M shifter but for the fact that the shifter isnt sitting in the middle of the hole in the floor.. it looks too far forward.

i cant see the gearboxes being that much different if at all.. personally i think its something in the setup of the linkages. i have mostly new parts but the selector rod was the one that came with the box and it looks longer than the one in the diagram but the whole thing still looks like its too far forward in the hole tho with a shorter selector rod and a standard e30 shifter that has the slight bend back in the shifter i could imagine that bend and shorter rod being like that so the stick itself does come up in the middle of the hole even with the support arm about 1 inch forward of the middle of the hole.

the shifter cant be put on 180 degrees around.. it makes no difference because the stick is totally straight unlike the OEM E30 shifter and that of the E36/E46 M3 and whatever other models use a shifter with a bend in it.

this is what i think the problem is.. the OEM setup would have the stick sitting back slightly or at the very least straight up when in neutral whereas my setup means the shifter is sitting forward. it looks like its in 3rd gear but its actually in neutral in this pic:

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Tue May 19, 2009 5:00 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
just shorten the shifter linkage, a little cut & weld and your good.

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Tue May 19, 2009 5:56 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
going to lengthen the support arm instead of shorten the selector rod. should end up in the middle and straight up instead of tilted back the other way if i shortened the rod.


Tue May 19, 2009 6:05 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
i know one thing that you absolutely have to be sure of is, the older 325s had crank positioning sensors on the bellhousing, the newer ones had a vr reluctor wheel on the front of the motor, if you have and older 325, you need the older style bellhousing on the trans. but if you have a newer 325 you can use either. i found this problem out the hard way... my cousins auto went out and we started the swap and realized the trans we had wouldnt work, and the trans in my car would work for his and i didnt need the fittings because i am running MS. long story short we had to change 2 transmissions, 9 hours later it was all done.


Wed May 20, 2009 6:28 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
I believe the difference is eta and non eta. not db and plastics. I have owned 2 diving board 325is without that sensor and 1 diving board 325e with it.

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Wed May 20, 2009 6:40 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
the car has the sensor on the front of the engine so thats not an issue. heard that one already too :mrgreen:

what im pleased with is that this seems to be the only unforseen problem. everything else was straight forward. the only other thing that could have posed a problem was the difference in early and late model brake light switches but luckily i read about this and noticed my manual pedal box was from an older car so i got a new old style sensor and demolished the car loom side of the new type connector and got it to fit the old type switch.

tbh i was thinking id have loads more problems since what i went on for parts was this guide and just assumed id need the same but for RHD. also think theres a bbit to be said about "making a list and checking it twice" lol.. caught onto a few things i had previously overlooked by going over what i needed a few times along the way.


Wed May 20, 2009 11:39 pm
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Post Re: Yoshi and viet's Auto to Manual Swap Guide
this is what i think the problem is.. the OEM setup would have the stick sitting back slightly or at the very least straight up when in neutral whereas my setup means the shifter is sitting forward. it looks like its in 3rd gear but its actually in neutral


Actually I think your problem is caused by the 10.25" shifter selector rod you are using as opposed to an 8" one. The one I am using is 8" long and I am using a Z4 3.0 shifter, works like a charm on the car but have not tried it out driving as yet. With the car stationary I have shifted into all the gears easily with engine off and they shift easily and I love the throw, not too short IMO, I love it.
Here are some pics, the first showing my linkage set up, the second and third shows the shifter in neutral, the fourth shows the car in reverse and the last pic shows the gearbox in fifth gear, all perfect with no issues mechanically. I do have some electrical tinkering to do since my car had a euro sport transmission controlled by a separate computer and so the wiring is all different under the shifter console.


Attachments:
File comment: My short shift linkage on my 89 Euro M-Tech II e30. I am using all brand new OEM parts . I am using a Z4 3.0 shifter.
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Sat May 23, 2009 7:56 pm
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