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Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:01 am
by AustinR
Well guys. Here's how my miserable night went in the best write-up form I can give. Seriously failed on photos...here's why.

Step 1: Observe your love, and smile.
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Step 2: Jack up car. Remove front wheels.
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Remove discs/calipers. You probably don't need to do this, but it's easy and get's the disc out of the way.
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Safely hang the caliper out of the way like I did with the zip tie.
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Step 3: Loosen tie-rod nut just enough so it's flush with the top of the tie-rod stud.
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Support bottom of the strut housing with a jack and pound the tie-rod stud out of the strut housing. I have found this works much better than a pickle fork and obviously doesn't wreck your dust boots. As suggested by a member on here, another method is to put downward pressure on the tie-rod and tap on the part of the strut housing that the tie rod-stud is going through. That way you don't end up accidentally messing up the threads or nut.
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Step 4: Remove dust boot clamps from steering rack and pull dust boot back. There will be a washer bent over the little tabs on the tie-rod knuckle (inner ball joint). Bend those out of the way so the knuckle can be turned/unscrewed from the steering rack.
(Hard to see in the pic, but my hand is pulling back the boot, and at my finger tips is the knuckle that screws into the steering rack itself. The steering rack is the nice shiny part.)
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Step 5: It's out! Re-install everything in reverse order and make sure everything is tightened down good; THIS IS YOUR STEERING!!!
Try and make sure the new tie-rods are the same adjustment as the old ones. I did this by counting threads on the tie-rods and adjusting so they were equal.

Step 6: GET AN ALIGNMENT. I've heard of people using strings to do an alignment...just get it done professionally. I think having a good alignment is well worth the money.

Step 7: MANDATORY!
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Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:18 am
by ten2doyle102
I just recommend that when popping that tie rod out, that you be careful when pounding the top of that nut. Granted in this situation it doesn't matter since you're replacing the tie rod lol. I usually just apply a bit of downward pressure on the top of the tie rod and give the strut several good whacks around the tie rod mounting point.

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:27 am
by AustinR
Yeah I wasn't really concerned with the old stuff. That being said, that's why I put the nut so it's just flush with the stud. That way nothing can really mushroom over on anything else. The threads can't get messed up and the nut can't get messed up since it's all even. I'm sure you could still do damage if you're not careful though. I'll have to try your method next time.

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:37 am
by Nsquared97
Well I'm impressed, I would have just said F*** it and not even attempted that in the rain haha. And I have a garage damnit, just ask and your welcome to use it!!!

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:24 am
by AustinR
Hahaha. I thought hard about giving you a call, but I already had it taken apart from yesterday, so I just grew a pair and did it. haha. As I was working, it seemed to rain harder...then slightly harder....then just a little harder, the whole time. I kept thinking "It's got to let up soon."
It's still raining out 9 hours later...lol

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:16 am
by AustinR
*** Updated up top ***

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:57 am
by M20_fever
stickied.

Re: Inner/Outer Tie-Rod Replacement Write-Up

Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:16 pm
by blasphemy101
Went through this over the weekend. Those tabs are just about impossible to get to, depending on how the tie rod is oriented. I highly recommend buying replacement tabs. The hole kit - OEM tie rods, tabs, boots, and clamps is about $130 on Pelican Parts. It's not cheap, but it isn't that much more to just spring for the OEM parts when you're doing the work yourself. Plus, it looks so nice when you're done :)