Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

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M20_fever
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Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:55 pm

Well it's been a while since I contributed anything of real value so I guess now is as good a time as any to throw you guys a bone. I'll be running some 16x9 Kosie K1's which will not clear the stock fenders on my car, so I need to roll them to fit my new meats.

If you are not familiar with fender rolling it's the process of folding the small horizontal return flange on the fender lip up flat against the inner fender to allow for more wheel/tire clearance. You may also have heard of "pulling" a fender to fit even wider tires, I will touch on this also. Pulling is basically taking the flat vertical surface of the fender and bending it out slightly from the bottom. Both rolling and pulling are done using the same tool, which in my case was an Eastwood roller kindly lent to me by a friend.

There are people out there that say they can do this process with a wooden baseball bat, and that may be true, but I prefer to use the tool designed for the job to guarantee the best possible results. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a complete engine rebuild I would put this job at a 4 only because you only have one shot at it so be honest with yourself before attempting this procedure because if you screw it up your fenders will look like absolute poo.

I recommend this be tackled as a 2 person job, things will go much smoother and the results will be better as well.

First step to get the car ready for rolling is to get it up on jack stands and remove the wheels, brake calipers, and brake caliper brackets. If you can't complete this step without instructions stop reading now. :wink:

Next the plastic fender liners need to be removed, they are held in place by plastic nuts and screws accessed through the wheel well.
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Once the fender liners are removed and the fender lip has been thoroughly cleaned the Roller can be mounted to the car. The Eastwood roller I used is not set up to bolt directly to a 4x100 lug pattern, so I was only able to get 3 lug bolts in. This posed no problems so don’t spend too much time worrying about it. When mounting the roller to the hub you need to use the concave washers included with the roller (pictured below).
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I was only able to get 3 lug bolts in if I started the bolts in a specific order. I first started the bottom nut, being sure to only start the threads so there was plenty of play. Next I started the left hand bolt, then finally the top bolt. You will notice there is very little clearance to get the top bolt started, this is not an issue since the bolts should only be finger tight. Tighten the bolts by hand enough to eliminate any play in the roller, so the roller mounting plate sits flush against the brake rotor. You will notice the roller is not 100% concentric on the hub, this is not a problem.
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Now it’s time to adjust the roller to make proper contact with the first section of fender lip to be rolled. Notice I said “proper” contact, starting the roller at the proper angle is critical to getting nice clean results so take your time here. The roller should initially be set at a pretty shallow angle to get the lip rolling in the right way. Remember, you are going to work small sections at a time at one adjustment setting until the whole fender arch is done, then re-adjust and do it again. Don’t be in a hurry and take your time or you will regret it, each front fender took us about 45min and I wasn’t using a heat gun since I’m not concerned with the paint cracking. I have included a couple pics of my initial setup, note the angle of the roller.
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NOTE: make sure the steering wheel is locked, if it's unlocked the you will not be able to get even pressure on the roller because it will turn the hubs as you increase pressure.

Before you begin rolling you need to decide if you care if your paint cracks too much. I say “too much” because from what I hear, even using heat usually results in some paint cracking. It really depends on how much you are rolling the fender lip. I rolled mine flat so I’m certain the paint would have cracked even with heat. I’m painting the car this winter so I didn’t bother with the heat since I didn’t care about cracking, and boy did it crack, haha. If you do plan to use heat to reduce the cracking only heat small sections as you’re rolling. Use a hot day in 100* direct sunlight to be the benchmark for how hot you should get each section before rolling. Be careful with the heat gun or you can easily melt the paint which would look worse than the cracking, lol.

Now you’re ready to start rolling. I found this process to be much easier with two people, one person working the roller and one person putting pressure on the outside of the fender where the roller was contacting (the second person would also be responsible for running the heat gun if used). Starting in the top middle of the fender start working the roller back and forth in a small swing while slowly turning the pressure up using the pressure adjustment rod. When you feel and/or see the lip starting to bend upward stop adding pressure and work the roller back and forth several times until the lip is evenly bent up in that location, then swing the roller down to the next section, working your way around the fender radius. It may be necessary to adjust the pressure as the roller moves from section to section, and this is done by feel alone.

The key here is patience, don’t try to roll the lip flat in 2 passes or it will fold unevenly and result in waves that can be seen from the outside of the fender.

Here is the lip after the first pass of the roller.
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And the second pass.
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Here it is after 4 passes, pretty much flat. If you try to roll any flatter than this you will start pulling the fender, so if you don’t want the pulled look this is as far as you go without pulling out the body hammer and hammering the lip perfectly flat. Be aware that taking a hammer and dolly to the fender will require paint work when all is said and done.
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At this point I decided I wanted a slight pull on the fender since I like the look and it gives me a bit more room for rubber. Pictured below is the setup angle I used to pull the fender, notice that the roller is positioned to contact the entire vertical surface of the fender lip. Be sure the roller does not touch anywhere above this surface or it will put a crease just above the fender lip!
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When you get to the bottom of the fender try to ease the pressure off to leave a nice smooth transition into the un-rolled portion, it just looks nice and clean.
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Here is the lip rolled flat and slightly pulled.
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And how it looks from the important side.
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Here is a couple pics from the opposite side front.
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Next was to roll the rear fenders which is a bit different than the fronts. There is no need to remove the rear calipers or brackets on the rear as the roller clears without problem. The rear fender lips are much thicker and wider than the fronts which makes it more difficult to get a good roll. There is a partial roll from the factory in the rear, so I used that as a guide for what I rolled. It's really hard to roll past the factory roll because the lip material gets so thick, but there is no need to roll down the sides as it will not increase any wheel/tire clearance.

I used the same 3 lug mounting process as the fronts.
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Here is the rolling angle I started with.
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I rolled the rear lips flat like the fronts, and put a slight pull in to match the fronts also. Below are a few shots of each pass with the roller to get there.
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The rears only took about 20min each to complete since I only rolled the top portion of the fender where the clearance matters.

I can not stress enough to take your time and be careful because rushing will end with wavy fenders that look terrible, and once they are messed up it's going to take a ton more work to get it right again. Feel free to ask questions, I'll keep this 1st post updated.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby ten2doyle102 » Mon Nov 23, 2009 10:27 pm

XXmm socket.... HHmmmm..... :D


Can't wait to see it dood!
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby madmaverick » Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:54 am

Definitely the right way to do it.

Baseball bat or newspaper is much more fun though lol.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Tue Nov 24, 2009 1:29 pm

haha, yeah this is a very rough draft, I have the fronts done already and I'll be finishing the rears on Friday. Then I just need to put it all together.

Never heard of using a newspaper before?
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby Yoshi » Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:13 pm

I tried my rears... late models are sooo thick its almost impossible.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:15 pm

yeah they look pretty thick, especially at the base of the fender. I only really need to roll the tops though, and with the Eastwood roller and some help I ahould be able to get a decent roll on them.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby Yoshi » Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:15 pm

True. I was pulling. not just rolling.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:39 pm

I'll take lots of pics along the way, I'll be putting a slight pull on them also.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby ten2doyle102 » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:58 pm

I SEE PIKTURE!!!!


Nice dude! Make sure to post before and after pics!
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby madmaverick » Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:26 am

Is this thing rolling again? Lets see some fitment pics!
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:56 pm

madmaverick wrote:Is this thing rolling again? Lets see some fitment pics!


nah, it's up on stands at the moment, won;t see the road again until spring. I can mount up one of the rears for pics but with the suspension at full droop it won't show much on fitment. I'll be moving the car to storage in a month or so when all the body work is done and the MS is installed, I'll snap some pics when we get back n the ground for the move.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby mvrk10256 » Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:10 pm

great info here. I rolled my fronts this weekend. JT said the rears may involve removing the shock and jacking up the trailing arm. But I havnt gotten there yet. Now I can tuck some 245 hehehehe.

Pics:
Before:

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After:
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**I went back and fixed that small wave after I took this picture, but you get the idea.

Also for the DFW locals - I own that roller, so let me know if you need it done. I dont charge anything but I also dont accept any sort of liability.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:48 pm

I didn't have to pull the shocks in the rear, and why would you drop the control arm when the roller has to bolt to the hub?
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby mvrk10256 » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:40 pm

M20_fever wrote:I didn't have to pull the shocks in the rear, and why would you drop the control arm when the roller has to bolt to the hub?



Sorry, meant you disconnect the shock and use a jack to raise the control arm.
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Re: Roll 'em if you got 'em (fender rolling write up)

Postby M20_fever » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:56 pm

oh, do you have the Eastwood roller? The one I used was telescoping so I could adjust the length as needed. I just had the wheel off and the car on stands and it worked perfect.
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