Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

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Rick
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Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:48 am

I have all the VDO parts inbound for this install this week, and will document it here. Im going to put them where the center HVAC diffusers used to be in the dash.

I figured I would start the thread before the job starts in a few days, because it will remind me to take picts along the way! I tend to get tunnel vision on a job and only take pictures when im done. Now I have an obligation to show ;)
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Nsquared97 » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:53 am

Very cool, can't wait to see it!
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:48 pm

looking forward to the install.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby 87e30 » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:56 pm

I can't wait to see as well. I've been wanting to put some gauges in my car, but couldn't decide where I should put them. I have the single gauge pillar pod, but there's several gauges I want to add. Thinking about replacing the single pod with a triple, but still want more somewhere in the dash. If your project looks good I might have to copy you. :-D
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Yoshi » Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:41 pm

I clicked on this thread with high hopes. I have been let down for now :(
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:50 pm

I might as well start with the oil cooler/filter adaptor since this is where the sensors will be installed. I was not too sure my oil cooler was working, so we test the thermostat to make sure its working before drilling and tapping for sensors.

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disassembled showing thermostat and spring

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The thermostat itself

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to test i just used a thermometer and pan on the stove + water. Untouched it failed to open even above boiling point of the water (212*)...

So I took it apart and was inspecting the thermostat itself. I tried to move the small rod and it ended up pulling out. So I cleaned the inside of the thermostat out with carb cleaner, lubed and re installing the rod and re-assembled to test

This is what it should look like when oil is hot and its open:

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And when cold and closed:

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Unfortunately I cant seem to find any replacement part for the thermostat itself... Here is a RealOEM parts breakdown:

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It doesent even show it... Luckily I got mine to work just by cleaning it, and you might do the same.

I noticed that it starts to open at over 212* or boil point of water. This is a little high for my liking, so I decided to mess with the spring. I had an RC car shock spring left over for something and tried it out.

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With the lower rate spring, it now starts to open around 165*

This should be considered an "experimental" mod for now. I havent tried it out yet. But im confident it will work and get the cooler in the loop earlier.

Also there are 3 O rings, one for the thermostat end cap, and 2 smaller ones for the oil lines. Be careful not to lose them and check them out to make sure they look good before putting it back together. The large O ring on the end cap(part 7 in the realoem diagram) can leak and is a known for it. So its good to replace it
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:10 pm

very clever with the spring swap. I'll have to look into this when I relocate my oil cooler.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Thu Nov 17, 2011 5:54 pm

Im going to put the oil temp sensor through the oil cooler housing hollow bolt. this will get the sensor directly into the oil circuit.

If you havent done drilling and tapping before, I might suggest just dropping this off at a machine shop for them to do. If you muck this up you're gonna be screwed, and possibly need a new hollow bolt

You need a drill press, 1/8-27npt tap and appropriate drills. Start off locating the exact center of the bolt head. I put mine in a lathe to mark the center.

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The bolt is an odd shape so I used the housing itslef to hold it for the drillpress. Ideally I would have just used the lathe to drill the bolt, but mine is too small to hold this bolt.

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Start with a small bit, like 3/16". for steel use cutting oil and low speed

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I used 3 bits to get to the finished sized hole for tapping. If you start out with the large finished hole sized bit, you're probably going to drill it off center! so drill the hole in size steps.

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If you dont know, NPT (National Pipe Thread) are a series of tapered threads meant for pipe fittings. They are tapered and seal as they tighten. Most senders and sensors are 1/8" NPT. I really dont know what the "1/8" stands for, because as far as you look nothing about this tap is 1/8". But thats how they work.

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This is how I usally tap shit. Just with the tap in a drill set to slow speed. this is the part you can fuck up if your not careful!! You have to hold the drill straight and only cut about 1/2 turn of threads at a time, while backing the tap out and starting over. Be a gorilla and break the tap off in the bolt and you're most likely done. So taking the bolt to a machine shop starts to look like a good idea if yiour not experienced with this.

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More later
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby ponycarman » Thu Nov 17, 2011 6:46 pm

Interesting way of tapping. I've never seen anyone do it that way.

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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Nsquared97 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:10 pm

Too bad your lathe couldn't hold the bolt, I much prefer using a lathe to do tapping.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:15 pm

the 1/8 designation identifies the nominal inside diameter or flow size. Actual OD on a standard 1/8 tap is .407". There should also be a thread per inch number such as 1/8-16 which would designate 16 threads per inch.

There are also 2 types of npt threads, Jointing threads which seal against themselves technically not needing a sealing agent such as Teflon tape or pipe dope, and Fastening threads which do not seal against themselves and do require a sealing agent. Even when I use a jointing thread I always use Teflon as a redundant measure.

I generally use a T bar for tapping just because just like you said, its really easy to screw up with a drill, but I know its a common practice. Also might be good to mention that it's much better to use a specilized tap oil versus something like wd40, though motor oil works pretty well also.

great write up so far, keep it coming!
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Nsquared97 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:17 pm

^Tap oil for sure. Still amazes me how well it works.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:02 am

M20_fever wrote:the 1/8 designation identifies the nominal inside diameter or flow size. Actual OD on a standard 1/8 tap is .407". There should also be a thread per inch number such as 1/8-16 which would designate 16 threads per inch.

There are also 2 types of npt threads, Jointing threads which seal against themselves technically not needing a sealing agent such as Teflon tape or pipe dope, and Fastening threads which do not seal against themselves and do require a sealing agent. Even when I use a jointing thread I always use Teflon as a redundant measure.

I generally use a T bar for tapping just because just like you said, its really easy to screw up with a drill, but I know its a common practice. Also might be good to mention that it's much better to use a specilized tap oil versus something like wd40, though motor oil works pretty well also.

great write up so far, keep it coming!



Thanks for this fill-in! I figured so much but was too lazy to chase down the true answer of the NPT sizing thing.

DO use cutting oil in steel drilling and tapping operations. Motor oil is a fail so dont substitute. Cutting oil is more of a coolant.
Last edited by Rick on Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:06 am

ponycarman wrote:Interesting way of tapping. I've never seen anyone do it that way.

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Im so used to tapping composite/plastic parts that I do it for everything now. But if it really NEEDS to be super accurate, then the hand with drill is a negative.

One feature of the cordless drill is the chuck will slip on the tap using the hand drill, so you dont over torque and break it. The negative is you need to hold it correctly oriented to the workpiece.

You'll know who you are if you can pull this off. If you have doubts, take it to a shop and save yourself the grief of learning on an important part like this.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:33 am

Nsquared97 wrote:Too bad your lathe couldn't hold the bolt, I much prefer using a lathe to do tapping.



Yeah! My lathe is an 8x10" and geared for RC model stuff. Would like to get a bigger one to compliment but you know how the wish-list's go :)
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