Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

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Rick
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:37 am

Kinda shitty weather, plus the fact the stupid postman delivered the rest of the gauges next door and they sat there all weekend. So I got them late this afternnon.

After examining the oil pressure sender, I decided that a good place for it is the bolt that I tapped. The oil cooler adaptor is not really big enough for them both, cooler and pressure senders. So I decided to drill and tap the oil drain bolt for the temp sender. As far as I know this is where they put it on the M3.

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So the oil cooler adaptor is all hooked up, new O rings, filter and sender. Its a good idea to replace all O rings in association with this thing, as I noticed the adaptor to block O ring was crushed and if re-installed would not have a lot of pressure to seal.

Next up the oil temp sensor and the final wiring.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Mon Nov 21, 2011 3:09 am

looking good!
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:43 pm

next is to wire up the gauges into a cluster that plugs into the car. This is pretty self explanitory. there are only 5 connections the gauge cluster needs from the car to function:

1: Ignition switched positive (power when the key is on)
2: ground
3: Another switched positive, only this one when the cluster lights are on for the gauge lights
4: oil pressure sender wire
5: oil temp sender wire

I used 18 gauge but 20 would be fine too. you need all spade crimp connectors and one eyelet terminal for the pressure sender.

Also later on I will provide a template for the panel face i cut from ABS plastic sheet. No fasteners needed, it presses in place very firmly inside the dash (much to my delight! no fasteners needed)

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Im holding the negative, ignition positive and lights positive that plug into car.

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The tedius part! finding your feed wires in there. There are a few places to pull them from, the defroster switch, and the OBC (in my case a clock) Just disconnect them and start tracing with a voltmeter.

First You need to find a body ground using the continuity function on your tester. Attach one tester lead to any body metal part ( the ECU mounting in the glovebox would be a good and close one)

Then you need to look for a ignition switch positive. leaving your negative lead from the tester attached to the body ground, switch the voltmeter over to read volts and start checking the connector pins on the OBC and/or rear window defroster. This wire/pin needs to have 12 volts with the ignition key ON, and 0 volts with it off!

Once you find one that is a switched 12v with the key, mark it. Now you only need to find the positive that will energize when the parking lights and dash lights are on. This will be used to energize the gauge lights.

This is what I came up with: I pulled my ignition key on + from the rear window defroster switch (a green with white stripe wire), and the dash lights on + from the OBC (a smaller gauge brown wire, but use your meter to be sure, there are several "brown" in there)

Check your power leads in all phases with the voltmeter. Key off, dash lights on. key on, dash lights on and off etc, and be sure your getting what you need. There are some deceptive lines in there that are interconnected! when you turn your dash lights on, the gauges main power goes off etc.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:55 pm

Wiring the sensors to the engine bay is kinda a no-brainer. I will show where I punched them through the firewall rubber harness seal:

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Oil pressure, temp, and a few extra leads are in here for future shit like a wideband o2 gauge or whatever else.

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Connected up to the oil press sender.

I will add a heat sheild, and neat it all up after I do the oil temp sensor.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:57 pm

What they look like pressed into the dash.

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I need to do my diamond plate floormats! but thats another story :)

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Gratuity shot, lol
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby ponycarman » Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:51 pm

Looks great!

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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:49 pm

Sticky! I am so doing this. Are those really going to stay in place just pressed in like that?
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Sun Nov 27, 2011 12:26 am

Yeah they are great! Sometimes you get lucky and this was one of those things that worked out perfect. They are really pressed in nice and solid, but you can get them out by reaching around the glovebox area and pushing (with some good force)

I have the template here, will scan it and post it up.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Yoshi » Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:23 pm

they look awesome. Too bad those are the only functional vents on my car.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:44 pm

your defrost and floor vents don't work?
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Yoshi » Mon Nov 28, 2011 2:05 pm

um. defrost kinda. Floor. nope.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby ponycarman » Mon Nov 28, 2011 2:42 pm

Haha. Mine sorta work. But it has a funny smell that makes you a little light headed. :shock:

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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:42 pm

I almost never used the dash vents, the defroster and floor are the important ones.

If you like your center vents, an interesting thought is to mount them (gauges) in a black mesh frame, so the air goes around them. Or dremel some neat openings in the plastic.
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby M20_fever » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:52 pm

meh, mine is pretty much a track only car with no AC, and it's stored in the winter...so no worries here!
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Re: Oil temp, pressure and volt gauge install

Postby Rick » Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:35 am

Hear you man. Ac is for weenies, even in AZ :) I do look on enviously to all the rolled up windows when its 100+ and im sitting in a cluster fuck of traffic in downtown Tucson) But I avoid that scenario like the plauge.

So I have been running the miller MAF for a week. I do like it! I think its a nice little upgrade in sound, engine bay neatness/looks and performance. Its pulls a little more mid/top. Meaty intake sound too. In general it just feels better all around. Placebo or not, I think its a good little mod.

I love the haters who have never tried the MAF conversion and shitting on it, so typical of the "tech".

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