Emelie: Doing it right... the second time

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pr0craztinazn
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Emelie: Doing it right... the second time

Postby pr0craztinazn » Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:00 pm

She's an '87 325, which came from the factory with the M20B27 engine that is setup for economy. Useful mods include a 3.25 LSD rear, Koni Yellow dampers with H&R Sport springs, a pair of ratty sport seats, and 7 year old Falken Azeni RT215s. The A/C was removed in a very half-assed manner; I plan on reinstalling it and possibly converting to R134a in the process. Once the Falkens are very near death, I'm shooting to get XXR 513s in either 15x8 or 16x8, and shod them in some decent sticky rubber, then go for Hankook Ice Bears or Dunlop Graspics in preparation for the winter.

Annoying problems that needed fixing when purchased: coolant leaks, rear windows won't roll down, driver's side rear inner door handle is non-functional, the driveshaft center support bearing is dying, and the antenna popped off.

This car hit Summit Point to drift within a week of acquisition, and it will see me driving for the rest of the events in the near future.

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That's how she looked when I first got her on the street in August 2009.

In October, the car got a new headgasket after a grueling weekend at Yoshi's. The irony was that the headgasket wasn't in the best of shape, but the massive coolant leak was from a torn coolant hose at the back of the block that was really hard to reach with the head still on the engine.

Her blower motor failed in November, along with the gauge cluster; the cluster died due to a short in the ABS relay, which is now sitting next to me. The blower motor, though, is dead.

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In December, the car put down these numbers with a leak from one of the headers and with no radiator fan, so she'd overheat somewhat at the end of the 2nd and 3rd dyno runs. I was still pretty happy with the car despite it having this issue where it'd die at random.

In January 2010, I picked up a MarkD chipped ECU, which supposedly gives a 20whp and lbs/ft torque gain at the wheels... I'd believe that. I installed it the night I got back from Australia, and took it out on a near freezing night in the rain, spinning my way from 2nd to 5th gear on the highway. She could definitely do some really silly stuff in the wet due to the insane amount of off-idle torque she made.

February saw a no-start condition develop, which was very intermittent and progressed into "hit bump, have the car cut out" mode of failure... how shitty when I had just gotten used to driving her everywhere. I replaced the crank position sensors on the trans, and she started up more reliably... for a while.

The improving weather in March saw me put 2200 miles on her in less than a few weeks, and just after a trip to Richmond, VA, she quit on me. My intermittent no-start was now constant, & was due to the flywheel reference pin shearing off. I bought an engine that (ironically) used to be in Donna (?), the coupe Yoshi sold to Viet. However, I found a M50NV in a junkyard roughly a week after buying this engine, and with the M20B25 still outside, I threw it up for sale and picked up the M50, thanks to Yoshi (he pulled the oil pan off an E34 with a M50TU in the junkyard... what a bitch!).

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My back got messed up, and I wasn't really able to do much; the car sat for months until Yoshi decided he wanted his driveway back; he pretty much did my swap. To say I owe him is a gross understatement. I've been ironing out bugs at a glacial pace. How glacial? I have to do my first oil change since the M50 swap, and I've put a maximum of 280 miles on the car since the swap was completed.

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The transmission cross member Yoshi fabbed for my G260:
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Final version:
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As she sits:
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The above is where I thought my lower heater core outlet is leaking; Yoshi thinks otherwise.
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Steering angle++ from E36 rack?

Current things to do/fix list:
- Massive pre-o2 sensor leak from the headers' connections with their downpipes (no gaskets). This wouldn't be a problem if I could figure out how Yoshi got the exhaust on the car in the first place; my downpipes are so close to the subframe that I can't slide a piece of paper between them.

- Blower motor access cover needs to be rebent or replaced so exhaust doesn't leak into the cabin and slowly asphyxiate me. Fan resistor pack needs to be reseated.
- Belt idler pullies needs to be replaced; that's the source of the shrieking in the above video.
- I'm chasing a phantom coolant leak, in that it doesn't seem to be leaking from where I thought it was (heater core lower outlet in engine bay), but the coolant is going somewhere. The oil smells and feels fine...
- Reverse light switch is broken; need to drop the trans to overfill it anyway to compensate for its 15* tilt.
- Brake light switch pops out on occasion... zip tie it in place for now & replace ASAP.
- Replace the license plate lights (have parts, need to do it).
- Tach is dead; need to check if I fragged something. I have spare clusters with known good tachs and they don't work.
- Picked up an E34 5 series auxiliary fan, the same as used in the E32 7 series. I need to make some mounts for it and replace the annoying BMW wiring connectors with something easier to undo, like a GM/Delphi weatherpak setup.
- Brake fluid reservoir cap needs to be replaced (have it; need to find it).
- Passenger side wiper no longer moves; hope I didn't strip the threads in the pivot.
- Radiator; replace with E36 aluminum rad, like a CXRacing or Mishimoto unit. Might as well do silicone hoses and an 80C thermostat + http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rdcb.aspx in order to do the "fan delete" mod (http://www.understeer.com/fanclutchmod.shtml).
- E36 inner and outer tie rods with lock washers to replace my E30 tie rods. I have steering rack spacers en route, and when those get installed, I can (finally) get the front end aligned.
- Brakes. The front has cheap, crappy NAPA pads, and the rears are about done.
- Wheel stud conversion (have the studs, need to install them).
- 205/50/15 Dunlop Z1 Star Specs for my 15x8 0-offset XXR 002s once the weather warms up and/or a decent tire rebate comes around.
- Figure out why the rear windows won't move, & fix it. Possibly install the replacement glass I have in Yoshi's basement at the same time
Last edited by pr0craztinazn on Mon Aug 13, 2012 4:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby M20_fever » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:40 pm

Good to see some progress! Any pics/vids of you sliding her?
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby Yoshi » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:46 pm

god that squeal kills me.
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Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby toointoxicated62 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:04 am

jesus the squeal is insane.

Butt connector are bad! lol Solder and heatshrink.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby Court M3 » Sun Jan 23, 2011 3:35 am

Nice progress. Track/drift/daily cars are pretty cool
1983 S50 swapped 323i
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby pr0craztinazn » Thu Jan 27, 2011 3:22 am

M20_fever wrote:Good to see some progress! Any pics/vids of you sliding her?

Not yet, but I hope to change that by April.

Notes to self... I need to order:
11-28-7-841-228 - Upper idler pulley $24.50
11-28-1-748-131 - Tensioner/lower pulley $17.25
61-31-8-361-787 - E36 318ti Radiator temp switch 80/88C $22.75
32 41 1 093 596 - Rad temp switch seal $0.25
11 53 1 466 174 - 80C thermostat $11 for a Vernet
61-31-8-360-420 - Brake light Switch $8 for a Facet
Dayco D70440 Radiator hose $10.99 x 2

This excludes the CX Racing radiator I was going to purchase. I seem to have acquired almost everything I needed for my interior restoration now that my IGGEE sport seat covers have arrived... couldn't pass up the price. Just need sport seat shocks and possibly late model window motors and regulators & I can complete the job later this year, but that's way down the priority list.

I think I am going to try using the stock E30 radiator thermoswitch with my late model E30 auto radiator currently installed now & the E34 auxiliary fan I have... if that works, then I can temporarily avoid spending cash on a larger radiator. That could pay for brakes or a third of my tire order...

With that said, I need to e-mail Performance Friction to see why they haven't made their Z-line pads for the E30, and what it'd take to do so. As much as I'd like to go 5 lug, I can't afford to do that and go to events this year, and I want better braking capability without spending money on pads that are old tech (Ferodo DS2500s), as my rear brakes are close to replacement time. Long list is long... and updated.
Last edited by pr0craztinazn on Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby toointoxicated62 » Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:41 pm

pr0craztinazn wrote:This excludes the CX Racing radiator and Samco or similar radiator hoses I was going to purchase. I seem to have acquired almost everything I needed for my interior restoration now that my IGGEE sport seat covers have arrived... couldn't pass up the price. Just need sport seat shocks and possibly late model window motors and regulators & I can complete the job later this year.


Comfort seat shocks work on sport seats.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby Yoshi » Thu Jan 27, 2011 3:33 pm

psh. fuck the metal straps to hold up the muffler, weld that bitch to the car. Or get the $5 hanging kits from vato zone.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby M20_fever » Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:01 pm

+1 on not wasting money on OE hangers. I use the Autozone hangers and they work fine, even seen people use pipe strapping with success.

Why not get some Hawk pads?
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby pr0craztinazn » Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:26 pm

I've run HPS and HP+ before... there's gotta be something with a bit more initial cold bite for less than $300 for all corners. Endless and Project Mu make great street pads, just not for the E30.

Autozone hangers it is... wish the E30 muffler mount setup was more conventional.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby pr0craztinazn » Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:30 am

Chasing down the radiator hose I need is proving to be a royal pain in the ass. I forgot I also need to pick up roughly 4ft of coolant hose so I can run the early model coolant reservoir & be able to tuck the secondary upper radiator hose out of the way. Also need a set of 12x1.5 open ended wheel lugs. What taper do stock E30 wheel bolts have? Pretty sure its 60*, but I don't remember if they're angled or ball seat type. Oddly enough, I didn't find any spare bolts in the house to check, and I wasn't going to pull out a wheel bolt to check... not in this weather, anyway.
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby M20_fever » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:02 am

pic from my build thread.

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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby Yoshi » Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:17 pm

I have like 50 lugs in the gok box. just pick one out :)
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby M20_fever » Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:37 pm

whats a gok box?
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Re: Emelie: My M50NV do-it-all sedan

Postby e30orDie » Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:43 pm

pr0craztinazn wrote:Chasing down the radiator hose I need is proving to be a royal pain in the ass. I forgot I also need to pick up roughly 4ft of coolant hose so I can run the early model coolant reservoir & be able to tuck the secondary upper radiator hose out of the way. Also need a set of 12x1.5 open ended wheel lugs. What taper do stock E30 wheel bolts have? Pretty sure its 60*, but I don't remember if they're angled or ball seat type. Oddly enough, I didn't find any spare bolts in the house to check, and I wasn't going to pull out a wheel bolt to check... not in this weather, anyway.



neat build, wish I had done a swap a year ago, and then go my route... oh well... lol

I WAS... JUST talking about our tapers on our lug bolts... Im trying to figure out if my stock ones are gonna work with my Rota RB's that are on the way :( I'm gonna be pissed when I get them, and then don't have anything to put them on with.
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