Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:18 pm

Ok so I managed to get a 2500 CFM 16" pusher on the front of the radiator (tight fit) and a 12" 1350 CFM puller on the back of the rad (tighter fit). The thermostat from the factory allegedly opens at 195 (internet argues this somehow) but cruising on the highway I'm at 190. I managed to almost hot lap the track and never got above 211 (the allegedly normal op temp). So that's good.

I did delaminate a tire so bad that I blew a hole in the battery tray, punctured the fuel overflow res, and kicked off my side skirt and bumper (held on by zipties). Yay!

The more concerning part to me is that I did the old zip tie your shocks trick to see how well my shocks were working. I shoved those zip ties so hard into my bump stops, it isn't even funny. But my rear is higher than my front and I can't raise my front anymore since I'm out of threads on my coilovers. I wonder if I can get some better coilover sleeves since those are cheaper than new springs.
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Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby M20_fever » Mon Sep 19, 2016 6:36 pm

So you need stiffer springs. not sure I get what your trying to achieve by raising the car more other than making room for more body roll? That would make handling worse.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:27 am

I want to achieve more travel. Right now, the front has about 1.5 inches of travel before you hit bump stop. On top of that, I'm slowly wearing away at my FG front fenders with my tires. So the front is most definitely too low. The rear probably doesn't need to go up that much. A 1/4" raise would likely actually get my camber back into factory spec (I have the weld in adjusters). Maybe that would help my front finally get under -4 degrees of camber.

Yea the car already looks like a 4x4. But that's basically all E30s.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby M20_fever » Tue Sep 20, 2016 1:41 pm

meh, this is why I chose conventional springs. I was considering trying some e90 drop hats to bring it down a bit, but I would need to actually drive it to make that worth while, lol.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Sep 20, 2016 1:50 pm

I can just get a pipe with the right ID and I can raise the front easily lol. The rears are max low right now so that's hilarious. $4 I can have the car the way I want. If I wanted to do it right, I can get the generic coilover sleeves for $18 per side from Jegs offroad section to gain that extra height too.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby M20_fever » Tue Sep 20, 2016 4:25 pm

lol, buying race car parts from the off-road section.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Sep 20, 2016 5:26 pm

coilover sleeves are coilover sleeves. As long as it's the right size, it works!
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:35 pm

Long story short, my front shocks are shot anyway. But I found out I could get another inch raised if I flipped the coilover sleeves (it's weird but worked). But then I realized that the shock doesn't have enough travel to raise that high so it's pointless anyway. I raised it as much as I could and just left it.

Subsequently, I'm still REALLY pissed at my brakes. I remember driving a guy's 302 E30 with the massive booster delete with factory brakes and it felt fine. Not great, but TONS better than what I had. So I got real pissy and poked around. I pulled the brake pedal and verified that it's the same (or close enough) to where the massive kit locates the clevis. Same with the master. So all I can think of is a line is bent or something something. I looked, no bent lines. I did find this proportioning valve that might cause issues with the rear so I'm spending the $60 to replace that. I'm also going to shell out the $8 for a T fitting so I can delete the ABS unit. Maybe that's holding air or something. I also am going to replace the front brake lines with factory rubber. One side is SS and the other side is a clutch line (track fix).
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Jan 17, 2017 12:17 am

Random shots of stuff. You can see the clevis point is moved pretty far from stock. SUV tires look funny on E30s and don't fit. And I made a cig lighter to alligator clip plug for a new air pump.

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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby M20_fever » Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:19 pm

All images are blocked for me, maybe host them here. I hope the best for you, but based on what you're saying I don't think any of those actions will resolve it. Have you thought about going with the hydro-boost setup some LS swap people run? I've seen good reviews on that and would eliminate the need to delete everything and basically be running totally uncontrolled manual brakes.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Jan 17, 2017 4:46 pm

I'm far too lazy to rehost the images. Currently have a baby on my lap lol. I used to have a hydro assist setup. But the track conditions caused too much heat and I fried 2 units. I swear the other car I tried felt fine. So I'm convinced that if someone else has the same setup, it should theoretically work the same for me. I just have to find what's different.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Tue Jan 17, 2017 7:23 pm

20170116_143047.jpg
20170116_143047.jpg (277.21 KiB) Viewed 221 times


Here. I'll upload one. lol.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby M20_fever » Wed Jan 18, 2017 3:47 pm

nothing a sawzall can't fix.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Wed Jan 18, 2017 5:58 pm

It's already pretty far cut back. I'd have to cut into the battery tray area.
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Re: Dexter Stage 6: No more motors!

Postby Yoshi » Sun Jan 22, 2017 1:34 am

Well I did stuff and things. To attempt to fix my brake issue, I decided to just simplify and replace things. I have no idea if ABS module could cause crap braking but because the booster delete kit I have uses SS lines, I figured deleting it would be simple enough.


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Not the "correct" way to do it but I don't feel like cutting and flaring lines. I used a T fitting with a part number that splits the rear line to both sides so it was like $5 and I knew it would fit.
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It's hard to tell but that thing attached to the other SS line (not the one from the clutch master) is the rear proportioning valve. Man it was a bitch to get to but I replaced it with a fresh one. Hopefully, if that was an issue, I've fixed it.
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I also put in a used but known good master cylinder from a trusted friend (I'm cheap). While I was in there, I figured a heat shield wasn't a bad idea. I would have made it ride up the side but the res already hits the coil wire. This should at least help. I know I know, the heat shield should attach to the motor and not the master but I tried that a few times and it never worked spacially. This section of the bay is tight.
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Bonus pictures of my data logger that's in process.
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In the end, the brake clevis plunger was too short so I ordered some bits from mcmaster carr. Then I'll bleed everything and give it a shot. I also replaced the front lines with rubber while I was in there. One side was SS from 12 years ago and the other side was a clutch line (track fix).
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Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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