Delanoso's resurrection thread

Post a build of your car or project HERE
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:26 pm

The ride on mine is pretty stiff already as well and it's not really a daily driver. It's got after market springs, sway bars and shocks/struts. What I *think* I wanna do is go 95A on the sub frame bushings and RTABs and stock on the diff, tranny and motor mounts. If I understand correctly, that'll tighten up the response some but maintain drive train noise. From what I've read, most people didn't really feel much difference with the SFB but picked up a lot of noise and vibration from the diff mounts. What do you think the benefit of doing that would be? 10% increase in performance along with the durability factor?
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:32 pm

Eh it would be ok. Although I will advise against the stock diff mount if you go with poly subframe bushings. All three bushings need to match or you risk breaking axles. If you think about it, those three things are what connects the rear suspension to the car. To have one of the three soft doesn't make much sense.

IMO just do all stock. You're not racing. And if you are, go solid.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Thu Feb 23, 2017 7:12 pm

In the shop getting sub frame bushings, RTABs, diff swap with new bushings, new axles and bearings, braided steel inner brake lines - I think that's it. Previously had the CABs and end links done up front. Anyone think of anything else I should do before you'd consider it road worthy?
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Thu Feb 23, 2017 7:21 pm

Check your rear shock mounts. The rubber gets pretty boogered with age. But if they are shot, don't go poly as poly doesn't stand up to the axial movement of the shock. Go spherical or rubber.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Sat Feb 17, 2018 2:57 pm

Hello gentlemen! Posted this on Bimmerforums and got no response - why doesn't anyone answer anywhere but here?

https://youtu.be/d2Z3R2Z7nXE

I have both pumps and a new FPR on the way but I figured I'd ask - shouldn't the gauge be more steady than that? All three components have been replaced in the recent past. The pumps in the car were replaced with the fuel tank about 3K miles ago and FPR was replaced last year when I did the original work to try and start the car so it can't have more than about 5K miles. Just had the injectors cleaned and tested about 2 weeks ago. What else could contribute to the fuel pressure bouncing like that?

This needle-fanning has been like that since I started the car last year. The car runs relatively well and I've been driving it to work once or twice a week for 4 or 5 months. It holds pressure for about an hour after I turn off the engine. There's some hesitation between shifts some times and I feel like it's starving at higher RPMs. That might just be the high pressure pump, which is definitely failing but I feel like there's something causing it to fail so if I just dump a new one in I'll have wasted the money on it.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Sat Feb 17, 2018 5:55 pm

The fanning is either caused by a cheap/bad gauge or the fuel pressure really is that inconsistent. The gauge doesn't look high quality (iunno, just a thought) so as long as the car runs fine, I would just figure it's the gauge. Otherwise, inconsistent fuel pressure is likely caused by the FPR. I doubt it would be the pump since it wouldn't keep fuel pressure when you actually put a load on the motor. But again, even a failing FPR would cause issues with load too.

So yea, I'm gonna guess poo gauge. At least that's me thinking horses and not zebras.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:13 pm

The gauge could be cheap and causing the fanning, but the high pressure pump keeps going bad (currently humming like the Crash Test Dummies turned up to 11) so there's something wrong in the system. I generally assume stuff like that is connected but maybe they're not. I have to replace that but I'm hoping to understand what's causing it to fail before I put it in.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:52 am

Yea I mean... fuck it, replace everything. Worst case, it's not the right parts but you won't have to replace those other bits for a looong time.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
User avatar
M20_fever
Größter Vorsitzender
Posts: 11028
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 1:28 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Northern IL

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby M20_fever » Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:51 pm

Holding pressure for an hour is normal, nothing to worry about there. Where are you tapping in to get the fuel pressure reading? If it's after the FPR right before the input to the fuel rail (kinda looks like it) then you could get readings like that as the injectors fire. Pull pressure before the FPR to see what the pumps are really doing. You should also check the return line for obstruction, and make sure it's not dumping into the pickup as this can cause cavitation through the main pump, which will eventually damage the pump.
Image
Midwestern Councel C Prepared class champion 2012
North Suburban Sports Car Club C Prepared class champion 2012
HSAX Instructor

GET YOUR E3P GEAR HERE: http://www.cafepress.com/e3pgearshop
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:56 pm

The gauge is on the line between the filter and the fuel rail. The FPR is actually mounted to the fuel rail on the opposite side so I can't pull between. Where else should I put it?

The return line is a new idea and sounds possible. I'll look into that.
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:55 pm

Replace ERRTHANG!
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
User avatar
M20_fever
Größter Vorsitzender
Posts: 11028
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 1:28 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Northern IL

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby M20_fever » Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:19 pm

wait, your gauge is between the inline filter under the rocker and the fuel rail, right? So that should be between the FPR and the pumps. Post a pic, I'm not understanding where you're currently tapped in for fuel pressure.
Image
Midwestern Councel C Prepared class champion 2012
North Suburban Sports Car Club C Prepared class champion 2012
HSAX Instructor

GET YOUR E3P GEAR HERE: http://www.cafepress.com/e3pgearshop
User avatar
Yoshi
Site Admin
Posts: 9092
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:47 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: North VA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Yoshi » Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:42 pm

It's in the right place. Altho it looked Ted off with the cold start injector.
Image
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
Delanoso
I <3 E30's
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 6:04 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby Delanoso » Wed Feb 21, 2018 7:55 pm

M20_fever wrote:wait, your gauge is between the inline filter under the rocker and the fuel rail, right? So that should be between the FPR and the pumps. Post a pic, I'm not understanding where you're currently tapped in for fuel pressure.


Correct. The line comes directly from the filter into the gauge. After the gauge it splits to the cold start injector and the fuel rail. If you look at that video again, you should be able to see that it's zip tied to the firewall where the port for the HVAC blower fan is.

Got the low pressure pump (in tank) replaced and the high pressure pump stopped humming. I find that interesting. I may run it like that a while to see how long that lasts. The gauge still bounces though so I'm investigating how to check the return lines.
User avatar
M20_fever
Größter Vorsitzender
Posts: 11028
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 1:28 pm
AntiSpam: No
Location: Northern IL

Re: Delanoso's resurrection thread

Postby M20_fever » Thu Feb 22, 2018 2:28 pm

Put a second gauge on the return line, it should be close to zero. If it's more than ~5psi there is likely an obstruction somewhere. You can also jump the fuel pumps with the car off and see what the gauge does. If it's steady with the car off you likely have a bad injector.
Image
Midwestern Councel C Prepared class champion 2012
North Suburban Sports Car Club C Prepared class champion 2012
HSAX Instructor

GET YOUR E3P GEAR HERE: http://www.cafepress.com/e3pgearshop

Return to “Builds”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests