DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCION xA

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DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCION xA

Postby dsc201knoc » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:40 pm

Like previously noted e30performance.info having the best howto on the RX7 Brake Caliper Rebuild. I figure why not make other people looking for DIY/Howtos come to e30performance.info also, regardless of the topic or type of car.

I did an oil change on my girls 2004 Scion xA so I figure I would post it here, instead of making a scion forum account to write a howto.

NOTE: Try to start with a cool engine; however, its up to you on how much heat you can handle. :mrgreen:

Vehicle: 2004 Scion xA
Procedure: Oil Change and Air Filter Replacement
Tools Required:
14mm Socket
10mm Socket
Extension for ratchet (Optional)
Ratchet
Strap wrench (Optional)
Funnel
Some Rags
Jack
2 sets of jack stands
Oil catching bin
Time: 30-45mins

Ok to start, i ran to Advance Auto and picked up some stuff so i could start the process of changing the oil and air filter. This is a real easy thing to do but, hopefully, this can help people that need some photo assistance.

Parts List:
Oil Filter: Purolator PureOne Part# PL14476
Air Filter: Drive Works Part# DW-15363
Oil: Castrol GTX High Mileage (2.9qt with Lucas, 3.9qt w/o Lucas)
Supplement: Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer (Optional) (1qt)

My parts list are completely optional by brand, any item in the list can be changed for a different brand if you want. I use Lucas Products because I see how they prolong the the life of whatever item they are meant to work on. It adds to the cost of the change but i feel it is worth it, especially on a car with 150,000+ mile car. I also recommend getting another quart of oil as a flush, this quart can be the same brand or a qt of cheap oil. (your choice and is not required)

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OIL CHANGE

1. JACK UP THE CAR - Ok so lets get started. First we want the car off the ground so we jack up the car. I used the front frame inside to jack up the car, there is a runner bar that works well and is very noticeable. I jack up the car from hers so i leave the front jack location open for the jack stand. The way the car is structured when you jack up the front the back comes up also. You can start on either side, I started on the driver side. Place the jack stands under the front and rear. lower the jack and go to the other side and repeat, when you jack up the other side of the car the front on the opposite side may come up off the jack stand, this is not an issue. Just continue and place the jack stands under the other side. Lower the jack an BAM! we are ready for action.

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2. GET THE OLD OIL OUT - So here is where we start getting the old out so we can get in with the new. :) So on this car the filter is located on the front of the motor and the drain is on the passenger side. Slowly Take out the Drain plug with the 14mm ratchet and socket, you can use the extension on the ratchet to keep your hands away from the oil when it starts flowing out. Place your oil catch bin under, make sure it is in a good position because it will drip at first then flow and then drip at the end.

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So now you want to take off the filter, this is kind of a pain because the oil will flow as soon as you loosen the filter with your strap wrench. Make sure you are finished with most the oil flowing out of the drain plug and temporarily place the drain plug back into the oil pan. move your oil catch bin under the filter, start to loosen and you will get oil flow again, when it is done flowing completely unscrew the filter and dump the excess oil out of the filter. Place the filter in a place so you can trash it, recycle it or do whatever it is you want to do with the filter. (Thats up to you). Now that it is off clean off the old oil with one of your rags and now you can install the new filter. Pus a little new oil on the gasket of the new filter and rescrew the new filter in.

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Once you have the new filter in, move your catch bin back under the drain bolt and open it back up. There may be some more accumulated old oil. THIS NEXT PART IS OPTIONAL: I always run some oil through the motor until the oil coming out of the drain plug looks clean. On this car i used about .5L before the engine oil looked clean coming out the oil pan. I always clean off all associated parts even though you dont have to, its just good practice. Once it came out clean i put the drain bolt back in and cleaned up the area a little.

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3. IN WITH THE NEW - Now that we are all back together under the car we can go under the hood. The oil cap should be already off and your funnel should be in place if you decided to flush the motor with some new oil to get some of the residual old oil out. So now we want to drop the oil in, I first put the Lucas Oil Stabilizer in then i put the oil in. Use the whole bottle of Lucas (1qt) and then put in 2.9qt of your Castrol Oil in which equals your recommended 3.9qts. Adjust fire based off of your dipstick. If you need more add a little more. Just like before clean up associated parts and replace the Filler Cap.

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4. SYSTEM CHECK - It is recommended that after you have the oil changed you run the car for 15 and check for leaks, if all ok then it checks out. Then drive the car for 15 and recheck for leaks. So we take the car off the stands in the same manner we put it up and now we can change out the air filter. I changed the air filter while the oil was draining but i wanted to separate them for ease of simplicity.

AIR FILTER CHANGE

1. GETTING THE OLD AIR FILTER OUT - This is a pretty simple process, so what we do now it loosen the retaining strap for the inlet pipe, and push off the 2 retaining clips on the front of the air box. Check inside the base of the box and make sure there isnt anything hanging out or living in there.

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2. IN WITH THE NEW - Ok this is the hard part.... Pick up the new one and... ready... place it in :wink: The only thing to note is that the one square side goes to the front driver side. Too easy, right.

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3. COMPLETE - Congrats you just did an Oil Change and Replaced your Air Filter.

NOTE: Dispose of your old motor oil appropriately. Basic maintenance will prolong your cars life, dont wait until i is a problem, thats why they call it preventive maintenance.

:mrgreen:
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Re: DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCIO

Postby Yoshi » Sun Jul 31, 2011 11:46 pm

Uh. this is an E30 board. Why do we need an Xa oil change thread?
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Re: DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCIO

Postby dsc201knoc » Sun Jul 31, 2011 11:50 pm

Yoshi wrote:Uh. this is an E30 board. Why do we need an Xa oil change thread?


Because why not bring more hits to this site, there was not one good oil change thread for this vehicle... You should know, the way i found this page was over a rx7 caliper rebuild thread :wink:

I work primarily on BMWs but I do work on every model car, Why not monopolize the tech articles across the boards entirely. Guess what forum is #2 on the results list for this topic... just sayin :mrgreen:
05-Now -- BMW is "The Ultimate Driving Machine"
Next BMW: e63 BMW M6
91 e30 318iS
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08 e82 135i (S)
96 e36 328iS M (S)
88 e30 325e (S)
10 r56 S (S)
98 e36 M3 (S)
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08 e90 328i M-Tech (S)
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Re: DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCIO

Postby M20_fever » Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:38 am

Fine with me, though we will only sticky BMW related write-ups.
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Re: DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCIO

Postby dsc201knoc » Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:54 am

M20_fever wrote:Fine with me, though we will only sticky BMW related write-ups.


i figured that, thats why i put it here in general tech. Ill have plenty of BMW mods to post up here.
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Next BMW: e63 BMW M6
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Re: DIY: Howto - OIL CHANGE - Air Filter Replacement 04 SCIO

Postby 87e30 » Thu Aug 11, 2011 3:14 am

You seem to like Lucas products... I've used them in several of my vehicles, and never had a problem until 2 weeks ago. I bought by 99 Suburban around 3 years ago with around 150,000 miles on it. I never used Lucas in it until my last oil change. I figured the engine is getting up there, so it wouldn't hurt. Well, at 215,000 miles I'm looking for a new engine. Not sure exactly what happened. I'm not leaking oil anywhere, and not burning it either (no blue smoke or anything). I know the oil pressure gauge is faulty, so when it started bouncing around again I didn't think anything of it until I heard my engine making some unusual noises. I went right to the auto parts store and dumped in THREE quarts of oil! It still runs, but it's very noisy now.

Other than that, good write up. One thing that many people might not realize though is if you have the oil cap off when you're draining the oil it flows a LOT faster. I never even thought about it myself until my boss told me to take the cap off before doing any oil changes. I forgot to take the cap off my friends Jetta when I was changing his oil and it was just trickling out for like 5 minutes. When I remembered the cap was on I pulled it off and it came gushing out.
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