Air Conditioning Question

delgadojosef
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Air Conditioning Question

Postby delgadojosef » Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:22 am

My car won't blow out cold air and the mechanic said the compressor was done and I would need to retro fit the ac. He quoted me around $800. I don't think this is a garage project but I just wanted to get some feed back on this. Thanks.
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M20_fever
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby M20_fever » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:44 pm

If the system is empty you can do the work yourself, then take it in to get pressure tested and filled if there are no leaks. That is unless cali has so.e weird law about only licensed hvac shops performing the work, not sure about that.
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby ss45466 » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:58 pm

If the shop you took it to is correct, I would recommend replacing the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve as well as the compressor. If the compressor failed metal debris will get into the expansion valve and clog it. The receiver/dryer because it contains dessicant that absorbs moisture in the air, every time an A/C system is opened it should be replaced. (especially if its origional) And the receiver/dryer should be replaced last to minimize contact with moisture in the air.

Retro-fitting the A/C is not required, but its alot cheaper than buying r-12 @ near $40 a 12-14oz can. R-134a comes in @ ~$7-$12 a 12oz can, so it's alot cheaper. The r-134a will also use about 20% less (80% of the origional capacity) to fill your system too. But it won't cool as efficiently as r-12. And don't forget to add refrigerant oil if the compressor was shipped dry ( also add 2oz per component replaced, receiver/dryer (2oz) + expansion valve(2oz) there should be a capacity chart for the compressor in it's box)

That's just my 2 cents worth.
LeRoy Jenkums
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby LeRoy Jenkums » Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:03 pm

You might try the Duracool method. R134A/R22 is going to be phased out the same as R12 in the future. A/C system problems at a lot of shops are a PITA or their eyes get real big with $$$$$. A cheap WTH would be pull a vacuum and see if it holds for a couple of hours. Load it with the Duracool system or any of the other HC refrigerants. BTW in some states HC auto refrigerants are illegal. Take a look at the info on the links. A lot of knowledgeable auto mx people use this substitute. It does alleviate a large expense with better performance. If your system is below a minimum pressure point the compressor will not energize without a jumperwire because of the low pressure switch. Don't run it without pressure by jumping the low pressure switch. The compressor will be harmed without the associated lubricant in the refrigerant. Yes it's flammable, like gasoline and R12/R134a when loaded with lubricant. Anyone who drives a 2800 lb. projectile should have the reasoning capability to make a educated choice IMO.

http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/faqs.html

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

E30 A/C specs and info- http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... p?t=921770

BMW retrofit info- https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4vP9af ... w-8O&pli=1

Post #27..Knowledgeable Info- http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread ... 897&page=3
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M20_fever
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby M20_fever » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:00 pm

Nice fist post!
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby Nsquared97 » Thu Jun 28, 2012 4:12 am

^haha no kidding!
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LeRoy Jenkums
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby LeRoy Jenkums » Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:27 pm

FWIW- I have had a couple of E30's that have had Aux fan problems. I live in N.Florida and the heat is bad 8 months out of the year as everyone knows. The vehicles would blow fuse #8 (I believe it's 8 but would have to look at the box or ETM to be specific). Lets just say the Aux fan is crap. Some people replace the Resistor if the fan only runs at high. That's a fix for some problems but the real problem could be in the Aux fan itself. The OEM Aux fan is a well made unit. Heavy duty and just well made. What happens is the motor magnets detach from the case and jam the armature. They are just glued to the interior of the case. When one detaches it will jam or at least scrape the armature. The fan will work sometimes and the next time it jams. When it jams it craps the resistor, fuse and causes a mired of problems which can make troubleshooting difficult. The Aux fan can be slipped out the bottom of the mount with some judicious finagling. Jack up your stead and after a little wrestling there is enough room to remove via the bottom (late model). Saves a huge PITA of Rad removal and the system bleeding crapshoot if you don't have a Airlift. The Aux fan comes apart very easily. If you have a fan problem check here first before starting the detailed troubleshooting. Glue the magnet/magnets back on the case wall and enjoy another 100k of Aux fan operation. I have some pictures somewhere of the fan disassemble. If anyone needs A/C help or any mx help on their E30 in and around N. Florida I'm willing to help, no charge to get you motoring along. I have all the tools and have a pretty good knowledge base of these vehicles along with others, and a big hanger with airstrip for testing the handiwork.
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M20_fever
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Re: Air Conditioning Question

Postby M20_fever » Thu Jun 28, 2012 6:47 pm

Wait, you have access to an airstrip?? Got I wish I lived closer to you.

Great info there. I had that exact problem with my aux fan, but I just replaced it with a stronger after market unit since I was deleting the mechanical fan and didn't want to risk it failing on me again.
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