s50 swap

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Terry
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:38 am

Yes, that's an LC9 next to my father-in-law's underwear. A little off-subject... and I should probably erase that pic. I'll blame it on the drink.

Nsquared97 wrote:Oh, and don't forget the clutch slave cylinder line

It was kind of tough to get to, so I just cut it. I will need to replace the slave cylinder anyways, as a sticky clutch was the reason I stopped driving it 2 months ago.

I had a friend come over tonight, but he needed to get to bed, so I just continued with removing the engine alone. It took me 3 hours including undoing the shifter, a few other minor things, hooking up the chains and pulling the engine. I followed the manual, hooking the chains to the hole near the starter mounts, and the bracket above the alternator. It was a very easy job, until my hoist started jamming against the top of my garage door.
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I lowered it off the jacks, and had this much room to get the motor out:
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You also can see in that first pic that I had to bend the load leveler's handle so I could adjust it. And that, at another point, had to bend it the other way. Not ideal, but worked.

There sits the engine now. And tomorrow, it's going behind the Ikea panel, and the other one comes out.
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Couple of q's, should I reuse the charcoal canister on the s50?
Can the m20 oil cooler be hooked up, economically??
How much of that insulation in the transmission tunnel should I tear out, if any?
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Nsquared97 » Tue Aug 28, 2012 7:42 am

Terry wrote:
Nsquared97 wrote:Oh, and don't forget the clutch slave cylinder line

It was kind of tough to get to, so I just cut it. I will need to replace the slave cylinder anyways, as a sticky clutch was the reason I stopped driving it 2 months ago.

BavAuto sells a braided stainless steel line for like $30, I think it was even cheaper than their OEM replacement. And I managed to get a Sachs slave cylinder for $10 on closeout on Rockauto last summer.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Yoshi » Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:58 am

Those clutch lines are hard to find. SS is the way to go but it's $$ I thought you didn't want to spend. I wouldn't have cut it. I hope you don't regret it.

Terry wrote:Couple of q's, should I reuse the charcoal canister on the s50?
Can the m20 oil cooler be hooked up, economically??
How much of that insulation in the transmission tunnel should I tear out, if any?


Use whatever charcoal canister. Doesn't matter.
No. Toss the oil cooler. Or keep it around for giggles.
Remove as much insulation as you want. I took all of mine out. Makes it much easier to get to stuff.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:31 am

Yes, I regret cutting it. My friend was in a hurry, so I wanted to hurry... bad idea.
I found just a little rust on the engine bay, so I was thinking about painting it, but don't want to get carried away and spend $500 in paint supplies. The factory still looks good in there for the most part, so what do you think, just sand it down and put some type of rust sealer on the rusty or scraped parts, or some black rustoleum?
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Yoshi » Fri Aug 31, 2012 1:22 pm

rustoleum blows. Get this: http://www.rustbullet.com/
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:46 am

Differentials.... I would like to put a 3.46 in this. I'm aware that the e28 has this in certain models.
What about e34s? There is an '89 e34 that is being parted out locally, and came back with the diff no.: 33141209653
Is there a reference that will tell you the ratio?
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Nsquared97 » Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:27 am

Terry wrote:Differentials.... I would like to put a 3.46 in this. I'm aware that the e28 has this in certain models.
What about e34s? There is an '89 e34 that is being parted out locally, and came back with the diff no.: 33141209653
Is there a reference that will tell you the ratio?


I can't tell you if that number will give you the ratio, but Yoshi would probly be the one to ask as he is the diff guru. Anyway, I do know that there should be a metal tag hanging off of one of the diff cover bolts that will give you the ratio, And it will have an 'S' if it's a LSD. For example the one on my car says 'S3.73.' Thus meaning it's a LSD with a 3.73 ratio.

If that tag is rusted beyond the point that it's legible (like my convertible parts car was), it's pretty easy to figure out what a diff is with the rear of the car jacked up anyway.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Yoshi » Sun Sep 02, 2012 1:49 pm

E34 diffs won't fit. Very different diffs
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Nsquared97 » Sun Sep 02, 2012 4:50 pm

Ah yeah I was going to mention that, there are different 'case' diffs, I think we have the medium case diff?
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Yoshi » Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:22 pm

E34 diffs physically mount differently. E28 ones you just swap the face plate IIRC. not 100% on that though.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:09 am

Spent a week sick, had some house projects... little progress, but I did do a couple things.
I have the engine bay almost stripped, and want to clean it and paint any rusty or scraped parts. I stopped at the ABS system because I'm unsure of what to do. It wasn't working before, and I should have figured out why before...
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Re: s50 swap

Postby AustinR » Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:06 pm

I'd leave it in there and try to fix it.
The other day a dude blew a light right in front of me as I was about to go through the intersection. I was doing probably 55 mph. Slammed on my brakes and I could hear the tires screeching, then gripping, the screeching (you know what I mean). Basically, I believe the abs saved my car, and possibly myself. I was actually quite impressed with how fast I was able to stop.
If you're gonna drive the car on the road, I'd keep it on there. Just my opinion.

Post some pics of the engine bay and stuff!
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:29 am

Yeah, that's the conclusion I came after a good night sleep. Besides, the time to replumb the lines might equal the time it takes me to fix the problem.

Today I undid the bumper, lights, and harness, etc. I was thinking I'd like to remove that top frame bar that goes across the front so I'd have an easier time installing the engine and transmission. It looks like it's welded on, so not going to mess with it. Am I wrong?

I also took out the booster, leaving the abs lines.
Here's the pic of the bay.
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Initially, I only saw two really small spots of rust: tiny dime marks outlining the mounts for the washer reservoir, and a spot with flaking paint near the headers. That is pretty impressive for 24 years and 100x+? miles.



Over the past year, I first deleted the power steering with a plastic block, and then paid to have a mechanic install a z3 rack. I can't honestly tell you I notice a huge difference, but that's because I was never really able to test the car. My M20 had started stuttering on acceleration, and I could never get it to rev beyond 4000. This may be the subject for another threat, so long story short, I paid to have quite a bit of work done and it never solved the problem. With my time and skill, and other + and -, I figured it would be easier with more upside to go with a swap rather than getting the m20 just right.

I looked the bay over pretty good...
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And upon further inspection and rubbing hard with my fingers just under the MC:
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24 years everything was fine until I came along. That is the result of not being careful when working on the brake system. So, just one more little spot to do paint.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby M20_fever » Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:10 pm

Looks clean, seen much worse! I would keep the ABS, it works very well on our cars. I don't think I could stop faster than the ABS at this point, and it makes trailbraking pretty stable.
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Re: s50 swap

Postby Terry » Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:30 pm

This week I picked up a welded subframe. I really need to learn how to weld - that one made my wallet a bit lighter. How many hours to do a job like this?
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A powder coated valve cover to replace my cracked one.
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And this e34 oil pan. This came without the bottom piece. What do I replace that with?
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I will get started prepping the engine (I will do a jump-start compression test on it this weekend).
Also waiting on a can of the rustbullet automotive. The engine bay will now be gray.
I also have a can of the POR hardnose paint that I have had for a long time and not used. Any ideas where this paint would go best? I was thinking the valence.

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